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COPYRIGHT DEPOStr 




A MODERN HANDRAIL 



Common-Sense Stair 
Building and Handrailing 

i^antcaillnfl in (Cbree 35itiijfioni^ 

SHOWING THREE OF THE SIMPLEST METHODS KNOWN IN THE 

ART, WITH COMPLETE INSTRUCTIONS FOR LAYING OUT 

AND WORKING HANDRAILS SUITABLE FOR ANY KIND 

OF A STAIR, STRAIGHT, CIRCULAR OR ELLIPTICAL, 

OR FOR STAIRS WITH LANDINGS AND CYLINDERS 

^tair 'building 

COVERS UPWARDS OF EIGHTY PAGES, DEVOTED TO NEWEL 

OR PLATFORM STAIRS CHIEFLY, GIVING INSTRUCTIONS 

FOR THEIR BUILDING, PLANNING AND DECORATION 

BY 

FRED T. HODGSON, Architect 



Illustrated with over Two Hundred and Fifty Drawings and 
Diagrams, and Containing a Glossary of Terms Used in Stair 
Building and Handrailing; and in addition. Twenty-five Mod- 
erate Priced House Designs, Showing the Perspective View and 
Floor Plans. 




CHICAGO 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. 

PUBT I SHERS 



\9\3 



Copyright 1903 






BY 






FEEDERICK J. DRAKE 


& 


CO. 


Copyright 1913 






BY 






FREDERICK J. DRAKE 


& 


CO. 


CHICAGO 







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'CI.A358048 

^5 y 



PREFACE 

The following pages in stair-building and handrail- 
ing are taken from the actual working drawings of prac- 
tical handrailers and stair-builders. The first division 
is, in a great measure, the work of George Langstaff, 
New England, and is considered by expert workmen 
to be one of the best treatises of the kind, with regard 
to the stairs dealt with. Of course there are only 
eleven kinds of stairs, but they are so arranged that 
any person mastering to the full extent these eleven 
would find no insurmountable difficulty in dealing with 
stairs of other kinds. 

It must be remembered that the reader of this book 
is supposed to have a considerable knowledge regard- 
ing the various methods of building the stair proper in 
all its different forms, for without this knowledge it 
will be impossible to understand the method of laying 
out and constructing a rail, even for a straight stair 
having a ramp at the newel post. That is the publish- 
ers' reason for including a valuable treatise on that 
subject, which teaches, in a very simple manner, the 
proper way to lay out the carcass of a stair, and all new 
beginners who have not obtained a fair knowledge on 
the subject will appreciate this addition, which, in 
conjunction with this work, will fully equip any young 
man with all the information he will ever likely require 
regarding the art of stair-building and handraiiing. 

5 



6 PREFACE 

The greater portion of the first division was pub- 
lished in "The Builder and Woodworker" many years 
ago, and afterwards, in a very much amended form, in 
"The National Builder," and is now in book form for 
the first time. 

The second division which contains some excellent 
examples is the work of several contributors, who 
worked under a like system. The methods of obtaining 
the wreaths and twists are worth studying, as they 
show how these can be lined out with the greatest of 
ease when the subject is understood. This method is 
nearly complete in itself. 

The third division is perhaps the most complete of 
the three, as about any kind of a rail can be obtained 
by the use of this system. While not exactly like the 
system of the late Robert Riddell, it approaches it so 
nearly that ordinary workmen would scarcely know the 
difference, but there is a difference, and Mr. Wilson, 
who has helped to work this system out, deserves 
much credit for simplifying the whole scheme. 

The science of handrailing was never reduced to such 
simplicity as now, and it is claimed for the three 
divisions shown in "Common-Sense Handrailing" that 
the latest and simplest methods are shown therein, and 
this, too, at about one-fifth the cost of the older and 
more elaborate methods. In saying this we do not 
mean to belittle the larger and m some cases the more 
extended works of Nicholson, Graff, Reynalds, 
Sherrett, Monckton, Secor, Riddell and others. Each 



PREFACE 7 

and every one has much to recommend it, and the 
expert handrailer will no doubt have copies of these 
larger works on his shelves. To the first and last of 
the names given in the foregoing belong the greatest 
honors in this science, the first for his invention, or 
rather discovery, of the true geometrical principles 
involved, and the latter for divesting the science of its 
crudities and reducing it to more simple conditions. 
Nearly all improvements in the science are due in 
large measure to the methods employed by Robert 
RiddelL 

The prismatic solid when thoroughly understood will 
show to the student pretty nearly everything required 
in handrailing, and it is the advice of the writer that 
this solid should be analyzed by the young man who 
wishes to become an expert, and the study will neither 
be tedious nor uninteresting. 

In all cases a stairway should be commodious, 
inviting and easy of ascent, and when winders are used 
they should extend past the spring line of the cylinder, 
so as to give a fair wreath at narrow end of tread and 
to bring the rail as near as possible to the same pitch 
as rail over square steps, and when the hall or space is 
sufficiently wide should not be less than 3 feet 6 inches 
in width; 4 feet would be much better, then two 
persons can pass each other. The height of riser and 
width of step are governed by the space allowed for the 
stairs, but as a ge'neral rule the step should not be less 
than 9 inches wide and the riser should not exceed 



8 PREFACE 

8 inches in height. Seven inches rise and ii inches 
tread make a very easy and good-looking stairway. If 
the width of tread is increased the riser must be corre- 
spondingly reduced. The tread and riser together 
should not be over l8 inches or less than 17 inches. 
Of course there are occasions when this rule cannot 
be employed, and the workman will be called upon to 
exercise his own judgment, but the closer he keeps to 
this rule the better will be his stair so far as comfort 
and convenience are concerned. 

This little book contains over240 illustrations — all of 
a practical nature — and it is hoped the text describing 
them is sufificiently clear, and that the student will have 
no difficulty in understanding what is meant and in 
being able, after understanding them, to construct a 
handrail over any flight of stairs that he may be called 
upon to erect. This is the ardent wish of the writer. 

Fred T. Hodgson. 



Common-Sense Handrailing 



FIRST METHOD 

The building of stairs and properly making and 
placing over them a graceful handrail and suitable 
balusters and newel posts is one of the greatest achieve- 
ments of the joiner's art and skill, yet it is an art that is 
the least understood of any of the constructive processes, 
that the carpenter or joiner is called upon to accom- 
plish. In but very few of the plans made by an 
architect are the stairs properly laid down or divided 
off; indeed, most of the stairs as laid out and planned 
by the architect, are impossible ones owing to the fact 
that the circumstances that govern the formation of 
the rail are either not understood, or not noticed by 
the designor; and the expert handrailer often finds it 
difficult to conform the stairs and rail to the plan. 
Generally, however, he gets so close to it that the 
character of the design is seldom changed. 

The stairs are the great feature of a building, as they 
are the first object that meets the visitor and claims his 
attention, and it is essential, therefore, that the stair 
and its adjuncts should have a neat and graceful 
appearance, and this can only be accomplished by 
having the rail properly made and set up. 

It is proposed in this little book to give such 
instructions in the art of handrailing as will enable 

9 



lo COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

the young workman to build a rail so that it will 
assume a handsome appearance when set in place. 
There are eleven distinct styles of stairs shown, but 
the same principle that governs the making of the 
simplest rail, governs the construction of the most 
difficult, so, having once mastered the simple prob- 
lems in this system, progress in the art will become 
easy, and a little study and practice will enable the 
workman to construct a rail for the most tortuous stair- 
way, 

A knowledge of geometry is not required in the 
study of this system, but it would aid the workman 
materially if he possessed a knowledge of that science, 
and where possible he should avail himself of acquir- 
ing as much knowledge of geometry as possible, not 
only for the study of handrailing but nearly every 
branch of the building trade. 

The progressive lessons given herewith will, I am 
sure, be of great assistance to stair-builders already 
engaged in the business and to the young aspiring 
mechanic, anxious to master every branch of his trade 
and to penetrate all its mysteries. This system will 
open a hitherto sealed book, especially to the young 
man whose knowledge of geometry may be rather 
limited. There will be no labyrinthic network of lines 
to torment and confuse the student, nothing but what 
is absolutely necessary to obtain the face moulds and 
bevels for marking and working the wreaths. The 
figures from i to ii show flights of stairs of various 
shapes and forms, and cover all the examples the 
workman will ever likely be called upon to build. At 
any -rate, if he should have to construct a form of 
Gtairs not shown in these examples, the knowledge 
gained by a study of these presented will enable him 



FIRST METHOD 



II 



to wrestle with other forms, no matter what their plans 
may be. The only form of stair not shown that the 
student may be called upon to build would very likely 
be flights having an elliptical plan, but as this form is 
so seldom used, and then only in public buildings or 
great mansions, it seldom falls to the lot of the ordi- 
nary workman to be called upon to design or construct 
them. However, to provide for such a contingency a 
method of laying out and constructing a handrail will 
be illustrated and described at the close of this 
treatise. 



Fig. 1. 3 

Fig. I exhibits the plan of a straight stair with an 
ordinary cylinder at the top, provided for a return rail 
on the landing. It also shows a lengthened step at 
the starting. 



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Fig. 2 shows a plan of a stair with a landing and 
return steps. 



12 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



Fig. 3 shows a 
plan with an acute 
angular landing 
and cylinder. 




Fig. 4 shows the same kind of stair as Fig. 3» only 
being at an obtuse angle. 



Fig. 5 



): 



Fig. 5 exhibits a stair having a halt-turn with two 
risers on landings. 



FIRST METHOD 



13 



Fig. 6, 



Fig. 6 shows a plan of a quarter-space stair with 
four winders. 





Fig. 7. 



Fig. 7 is the plan of a stair similar to Fig. 6, but 
having seven winders. 




Fig. 8 shows the plan of a stair having five "dancing 
winders." 



M 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 9 is the plan of a half-space stair having five 
"dancing winders" and a quarter-space landing. 



1 








/X 






Fig. 10 /T"""^ 




V 




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Fig. 10 shows the plan of a half-space stair >vith 
"dancing winders" all around the cylinder 



FIRST METHOD 



J5 




Fig. II shows the 
plan of a geometrical 
stair having winders 
all around the cylin- 
der. 

As it is necessary 
the student should be 
acquainted with the 
methods of develop- 
ment of the angle of 
tangents which give 
shape and joints of 

the face moulds directly from the pitch lines, a couple 
of examples are herewith illustrated. Fig. 12 shows 
a straight pitch in which both tangents are of equal 
length, while Fig. 13 shows the tangents of unequal 
lengths and different pitches, and I advise the student 
to thoroughly master these two problems by frequently 
reproducing them, as these two examples are the very 
foundation of the system we are about to submit. 

A tangent is a line touching a circle at right angles 
to the radius as shown at Fig. 14, and is readily con- 
structed and as easily understood. 

To construct Fig. 12, from center O with the 
radius OA, describe a quarter circle, APC; draw tan- 
gents AB and CB, join AC; through the point B draw 
a straight line parallel to AC; with center B, with 
radius BA, describe the arcs AD and CE; at the point 
E erect the perpendicular EF at right angles to DE to 
any desired height (in laying out a handrail this height 
will be the same as the height of the number of risers 
contained in the wreath); let F be the given height 
(this being one pitch); join FD, extend OB to G; from 
G draw GH at right angles to FD; make GH equal to 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




/ Fig. J2, 



BI. With the center H and radius DG describe arcs, 
cutting DF at K and L; draw HL and HK, which are 



FIRST METHOD 
H 




tangents on the pitch, and which, when placed in posi 
tion, would stand plumb over ABC. 



i8 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



To construct Fig. 13, proceed in the same manner as 
in Fig. 12, until the height is located. It will be 

noticed that in this exam- 
ple BG is lifted higher, 



Tatffent 




making the pitch-lines and 
tangents FG and DG of un- 
equal lengths. To obtain 
the angle continue BG to 
H, making BH equal to 
EF; from H draw the line 
HJ to any distance at right 
angles to DG. With the 
center G and radius GF 
describe an arc cutting 
the line HJ at S; join SG and SD and the angle is com- 
pleted. 

An easy way to prove the correctness of these prob- 
lems is to draw them on common thick paper or card- 
board on a larger scale than shown in these diagrams; 
then take a knife and cut out theangle DEF, place it per- 
pendicularly over ABC, bringing D over A and E over 
C; then cutout the angle HKL, and if drawn correctly 
it will lie on the pitch-lines and fit the sides exactly. 

To draw the curve line in the most practical way 
take B as a center, and with radius BP describe an arc 
touching the curve APC in the angle ABC; from H as 
a center, with the same radius, describe an arc cutting 
HG at M; then take a thin flexible strip of wood of 
an even thickness, bend it until it touches the points 
KLM; mark around it with a pencil, and the curve is 
completed, and near enough to absolute accuracy for 
all practical purposes. The curve so obtained in its 
perfection should be a portion of an ellipse, which it 
will be if correctly drawn. 



FIRST METHOD 19 

Let us now go back to Fig. i and describe the 
method for obtaining the face moulds and bevels 
of turnout and wreath pieces for that style of a 
stair. 

To build these stairs correctly and with an easy, 
graceful rail, two or three things must be carefully 
observed in taking dimensions and laying down the 
plan. Measure the height from top of first, to top of 
second floor; set the rod you measure with plumb at 
the trimmer where the stairs land, and be sure that the 
lower end is level from where the stairs start. Measure 
the width of opening from studding to face of trim- 
mer, also the depth of joist, that the cylinder may 
curve round and meet the face board level; plumb down 
from the header at landing, and measure back the 
amount of run where the stairs start; divide the height 
into the necessary number of risers, space off the run, 
making one less than in dividing the height, and also 
make allowance for the cylinder, landing and swell of 
the turnout steps. Where it is practicable make the 
rise seven inches or as near to it as possible, and make 
the tread, or step, ten inches or as near as can be, as 
this combination makes a very easy stair for dwell- 
ings, but of course the height of riser and width of 
tread will be dependent to a great extent on the sur- 
rounding conditions. 

In laying out the steps for the turnout observe the 
same rule that applies to all winding stairs, that is, to 
make them as n»ear the width of the straight treads as 
possible on the wallcing line. Locate the landing riser 
exactly half a step from the center of rail on landing, 
as shown at Fig. 15. This will bring the rail the same 
height on landing as it is in the middle of the step. 
Any departure from this --ule will either change the 



^o 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



height or will make it necessary to spring the wreath 
or slab off the shank, a very clumsy experiment. 




Fig. 1$ shows the plan of turnout steps, with rail 
mitering into cap. The dotted curved line shows face 
of string. The black line shows center of rail with 
tangent ABC at right angles to dotted radius. 

Fig. i6 shows the 
tangents in position on 
the pitch. To construct 
Fig. i6, take the pitch- 
board and mark out the 
steps as shown. Be- 
ginning at third riser 
and coming down, draw 
pitch-line CB from second riser D; mark distance DE, 
which gives angle B; draw level tangent BA, agree- 
ing with BA, Fig. 15; continue line of first step with 
dotted line to F, draw FC; continue the line AB to G. 
The distance from G to C is the required height, and 
EB gives the height to which the rail is lifted at the 
newel. 




FIRST METHOD 



31 



Pig-IT. 



To construct Fig. 17, >, 

draw tangents ABC, and ', 

curve line exactly like ; 

Fig. 15. In practice \ 

this figure can be drawn ; 

on Fig. 15, and to avoid | 

confusion of lines it is 
transferred. Continue 
AB to D; draw DC at 
right angles to DB; set 
up the height, GC, Fig. 
16. Connect ED at right 
angles to ED, draw DF; 
with D as center, de- 
scribe an arc from B to 
G and from A to F, then 
connect EG; draw dot- 
ted ordinates AA to 
mark center of curve and 

chord line. The spring bevel for squaring the wreath 
at lower end is found at angle E. To obtain the bevel 
for upper joints take a center anywhere on line ED, 
describe an arc touching EG and cutting ED at H. 
Draw line from center of arc at right angles to ED, cut- 
ting EC at I. Connect HI, and the angle at H is the 

upper spring bevel. 
The develop- 
ment of pitch-line 
for wreath is 
shown at Fig. 18. 
First make a plan 
of the cylinder; 
draw center line 
of rail with tan- 





23 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



gents CAB (the distance from face of string to center 
of rail varies according to size of baluster), locate the 
risers, putting last one-half step from angle A, locate 
the joint of rail at riser C. With A for a center de- 
scribe the arc ACD, extend AB to D, swing last riser 
around to E, chord line H, and X to I. Place pitch- 
board with riser touching AC, and hypothenuse or 
raking side cutting through E; draw pitch-line and 
continue AC to meet it at F. AF is the height of rail 
above the floor; draw FG at right angles to FC; con- 
tinue radius O through to G, square up from I to pitch- 
line and from H and D down. 




Big- 20, 




To construct Fig. 19 (this figure can be drawn on 
Fig. 18, but is transferred for the same reason as Figv 
17), draw a line agreeing exactly with pitch-line DF, 
with points HEI marked; make FG at right angles to 
DF, and equal to FG, Fig. 18. Draw the line I equal to 
X, Fig. 18, bend in a thin strip of wood and draw 
curve GIH. Set off half the width of rail on each side 
of this curve line, square the joints from the tangents 
KFG, and the mould is completed. A little more 
than the finished size of rail is necessary to square the 
wreath, but not often more than one-eighth of an inch 
on each side. The surest way is to draw the spring 
bevel on a board, place a templet the size of the rail 
on a bevel line at right angles to it, square from the 
edge of board across corners, draw parallel lines 



FIRST METHOD 



23 



enclosing the templet, and it will be seen at once how 
wide the mould should be and what thickness of plank 
is required. This method is seen in application of 
bevels at Figs. 21 and 22. 

Fig. 20 shows the bevel portion of wreath; a better 
appearance is given to the wreath by using plank half 
an inch thicker than the rail, and casing it up from 
center joint as shown by the sections on end of mould. 



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Figs. 2J and 22 show the application of the spring 
bevels and templets for squaring the wreaths. 

The bevel for Fig. 21 is found at F, and is simply the 
pitch of the sta'rs. The bevels for the turnout wreath 
are both applied !n the same manner, from the inside, 
or the face cutting through the center, as shown by the 
sections. 

The following illustrations exhibit a method of 
obtaining the face moulds for the flight of stairs shown 
at Fig. 2, which is a flight the most common in use. 

To obtain dimensions make the plan, etc., and fol- 
low the instructions given for Fig. i. Where the ri- 
sers are located half a step from center of rail, as 
explained previously, the same method will apply to 
this flight, and the bevel will be the pitch of the stairs 
at the center point, and the section will be square with 
the face of stuff a^ the straight end of wreath. 

Suppose Fig 23 to be the ground plan of cylinder, 
with risers placed in a position that insures an eab>. 



24 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

graceful rail, and also adds to the run by curving the 
landing and starting risers back to the platform. 




To construct Fig. 23, draw the center line of rail 
and tangents ABCD; from B and C as centers, swing 
around A and D, cutting B and C extended; swing 
around the risers E and F in like manner; place pitch- 
board with riser parallel to AB and touching H, and 
the raking side, cutting through G. Mark out the 
treads and risers as shown at XXXX. Draw pitch- 
lines, as shown, cutting AB and DC extended up; join 
IK, and the pitch-line is complete. To obtain the 
angle of tangents at K draw dotted line from center of 
cylinder cutting IK at L. Draw MN through L 
parallel with BC. At right angles to upper pitch-line 
draw dotted line NO. From center K swing around 
KL to O; connect KO, and the angle is complete. 



FIRST METHOD 



25 



To obtain the spring bevels — from center B 
describe an arc, touching the pitch-line KI extended, 
and cutting BI at P; connect PG, and the bevel for 
center joint is found at P. 

To obtain bevels for joints connecting with straight 
rail, take M as a center and describe an arc touch- 
ing lower pitch extended connect with L, and the 
bevel is found. 





Figs. 24 and 25 show the sections and application 
of bevels on rails. Fig. 24 is the lower and Fig. 25 
the upper wreath; the same face would serve for both, 
as the upper and lower pitches are the same. 

Let us now examine Figs. 3 and 4, and endeavor to 
form mils to suit them. As before stated, these two 
examples represent on the ground plans obtuse and 
acute angles at the return landings; and in the forma- 
tion of rails to meel the require>nents for these stairs, 
the student will have covered the ground for the for- 
mation of rails for nearly every kind of rail required 
for a platform stair. In locating these risers at the 
landings be sure to place them, if possible, exactly 



26 COMMON-SENSE HAxn DRiilLING 



half a step each way from angle B, Fig. 26. This will 
insure an easy rail 




Fig. 26 shows the development of the angle of tan- 
gents for the face mould and the bevel for springing 
the wreath. Draw the angle ABC on center line of 
rail as shown; draw dotted line from center O to B; 
draw DE at right angles to OB; from center B swing 
around A and C to D and E; set up one riser from D 
to F, and one down from E; mark one step above and 
below the pitch-board; draw pitch-line XX. 

Connect CA, and continue OB to G; with B as a 
center, describe an arc touching CA; from G as a 
center with the same radius, describe an arc; from E 
draw line touching this arc; from G again swing 
around GF to H; connect GH, and the angle of tan- 
gent is complete. The amount of straight wood on 
wreath is shown from E and H to the joints XX. 

To obtain the bevel it is first necessary to find the 



FIRST METHOD 



27 



point I; from H with FD for radius, swing an arc and 
intersect with another from E; having CA for radius, 
connect EI and HI; take a center, K, anywhere on the 
line EH, draw an arc touching GH and cutting EH at 
L; square down from K, cutting JH at M; connect 
LM, and the bevel is found for both joints of the 
wreath, the pitch being one straight line. Fig. 27 
shows applica- 
tion of bevel to 
wreath. 

Figs. 28 and 
29 are simply a 
repetition of 
Figs. 26 and 27 
excepting that the ground plan fgrms an obtuse angle. 






-V-' 


Fig. 28- 

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Fig. 30 shows the manner of sliding the mould on 
the wreath to mark it for blocking. We may state here 
that there have been worked some hundreds of rails 
during the past thirty years by this method, and we 
have come to the conclusion that the easiest and 




28 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

quickest way to block out a rail is to use just such 

moulds as are 
shown in the 
drawing, viz., 
of a parallel 
width, and 
just sufficient- 
ly large to 
square the rail 
properly for 
moulding. 
When the 
wreath is sawed out, the face of stuff carefully planed 
true, the tangents marked and the joints made perfectly 
square with the face and with the tangents, then square 
the tangent across the joints, mark the center and draw 
the bevel across, as shown in Fig. 27, mark the section 
of rail at right angles to bevel. The best method of 
doing this is to use a thin templet with a small hole in 
the center, through which put a scratch awl, then swing 
the templet until exactly at right angles with bevel and 
mark all round it. The section being marked, square 
in from the joints on ail sides to make sure the 
wreath will bolt on to the straight rail and form 
a clean line. To mark the curve line slide the 
mould up, as shown in Fig. 30, mark the inside 
edge (this line will not be quite as accurate as 
one made from an elliptical mould on the sliding 
principle with wide ends, but it is near enough 
for all practical purposes) by roughing out the inside 
first and occasionally planing through the wreath. 
Looking in the direction of a plumb-line, it will be seen 
at once when to take off the superfluous wood, and 
with a little care the inside will soon show a clean, true 



FIRST METHOD 29 

surface. As soon as this is done gauge the wreath to a 
width, then bend in a thin strip. Connecting the 
straight lines squared in from each end, mark around the 
outside in the same manner, mark off the top, gauge to a 
thickness, and the wreath is squared. The plumb-line 
can be marked on the inside of the wreath, and wil 
give the line of sight by taking the bevel from the 
angle EHJ, Fig. 26. 

Now we will describe the method for constructing 
the face moulds of a handrailing for a stair suitable for 
the plan shown in Fig. 5. In this example two prob- 
lems are used to obtain the development of tangents, 
bends and twists of the rail. 

Let Fig. 31 represent the ground plan of cylinder 
with the risers marked in position, also the elevation 
and "pitch" inclination of center line. 

It will be noticed that the pitch-line is perfectly 
straight. This is caused by the risers being placed so 
as to bring them exactly the width ot a step from each 
other on the tangent line, as shown in the plan and 
elevation, Fig. 31. This is a point the student should 
always bear in mind; locate the risers this way when* 
ever practicable, and you are sure to have a good-look- 
ing, easy rail. 

To construct Fig. 31, the plan of cylinder being 
made with risers and center line of rail drawn, swing 
out A and D to meet BC extended, also the risers E 
and F; place the pitch-board at the point where E 
cuts the line BC, keeping the risers parallel with BA, 
and the raking side cutting through the point where 
A swings around to BC. Mark the step and riser and 
continue the elevation as shown; draw the pitch-line, 
tiraw GH, continue DC to L, draw MN at right angles 
to GH and extend to chord line at S; from N at 



30 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

right angles to pitch-line draw a line indefinitely; with 
L for center and LH for radius, describe arc cutting 




line drawn from N at O; connect LO, and the triangle 
CLP gives the tangents for the face mould. 

The pitch-line being straight, the tangents are all of 
equal lengths, so it will be seen at once that the face 
mould obtained will be the same for both upper and 



FIRST METHOD 



31 



lower wreaths, and the bevel for both ends is found at 
R, as shown. 

Fig-. 32 is similar to Fig. 
12, excepting the develop- 
ment of tangents, which it 
will beobserved is obtained 
somewhat differently. 

F^S- 33 describes how 
the development can be 
obtained by the method 
shown in Fig. 12. While 
this method is perfectly 
correct in all cases where 
the tangents are of equal 
lengths, still it is better to 
use the methods shown in 
Figs. 32 and 34, as they will be more correct whenever 
a change occurs in the pitch. Fig. 34 is a facsimile 





of the "development" in Fig. 31, and is drawn in 
order to make the student more familiar with this im- 
portant problem. 



32 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



In order to produce the face moulds, bevels, etc., for 
the flight of stairs exhibited in the plan, Fig. 6, we 
must proceed as follows. Fig. 35 shows the ground 










A 


• 




A 


r 


1 






1 


» 














1 




















1 

1 


■ 
1 












L^ \ 




• 


1 


*^>_^ 




1 










• 


f 



T-. 



^^^ 



:r.-.^ 



Pig. 35. 



plan and elevations of treads and risers. The expla- 
nations given for the solution of previous examples 
will apply to this one if the figure be properly studied, 
as the method of proceeding to lay down the rail is 
exactly the same. 

In the elevation it will be seen that one pitch is 
employed for the wreath and the connections made 
with the pitch of the flyers by a ramp above and below. 



FIRST METHOD 



33 



One pattern answers for both ramps, as the pitch 
over the flyers is the same in both cases. 




Fig. 38. 

By carefully studying Fig. 12, the landing wreath, 
Fig. 36, will be easily understood. Care must be 
taken to locate the last riser as near half a step from 
the level tangent as possible. 

Fig. 37 shows tangents, center line of rail and the 
application of the bevels for the wreath. 

Fig. 38 shows pattern for lower ramp, and is simply 
reversed for the upper. 

These examples are simple and ought to be readily 
digested by any workman who has ever had the least 
experience in stair-building. The young student 
who has never helped to build a stair or erect a hand- 
rail should master these simple problems (on paper) 
and the first opportunity that offers to see a flight of 
stairs and handrail set up he should embrace it, and 



34 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



the whole mystery of handrailing will disappear at 
once. 

Figs. 39, 40, 41 and 42 represent the method of 
drawing moulds for flights of stairs similar to Fig. 7. 
Starting with winders in a quarter circle, Fig. 39 
shows the ground plan of risers, also tangents around 
center line of rail, and their development. To con- 




struct Fig. 39 draw radius from center A to joint of 
rail at newel B. At right angles to AB draw BC. 
This will give the angle of tangents on ground plan. 
In wreaths of this shape the tangent BC is always 
level so as to give a plumb joint at the newel. 

Before proceeding further with Fig. 39 the height 
must be obtained by drawing Fig. 40; this is done in 
the manner explained in previous examples, viz., by 
setting up each riser and obtaining the width of the 
treads from the tangents BCD, where the risers cut 
through. To develop the mould, Fig. 39, extend BA 



FIRST METHOD 35 

to I at right angles to BI, and from joint D draw DK. 
Make IK equal to Fig. 40. Connect BK at right angles 
to KB and draw BL and KM. BL should equal BC, as 
shown by the arc, and KM should equal ID. Connect 
LM and the angle is formed for the mould. The dotted 
ordinates give the springing line and a point through 
which to bend the strips to obtain the curve. The 
bevel for lower joint is found at K. To obtain the 
bevel for the upper joint draw a line from K parallel 
to ML. At any point on line KB describe an arc 
touching the line drawn from K. Draw a line from 
center of arc at right angles to KB, and cutting KD at 
O. Connect ON and the bevel is found at N for the 
upper joint. 




Fig. 40 shows the application of bevels, the upper 
bevel cuts shown through from the outside in all cases 
where the angle BCD, Fig. 39, forms an acute angle; 
when the angle is obtuse the bevel is applied from 
the inside, the lower bevel in all cases remains the 
same in application. 

Fig. 41 shows the ramp. 

There seems to be no difficulty presented in these 
problems that cannot be readily overcome if the stu- 
dent but applies himself diligently. We would sug- 
gest that each one o£ these figures be drawn and 



3^ 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



redrawn, until the student has become so tamiliar with 
each one of them that he can draw them from memory 
alone. Such practice will not make very serious 
inroads on his time, and what investments in time are 
made will, in the not very distant future, return* big 
interest. 




In Fig. 42 we represent a flight of stairs with four 
winders, quarter landing, and return flyers. 



FIRST METHOD 



37 



This shows the ground plans of cylinder, with risers 
cutting the tangent around the center line of rail; also 
the elevation of risers, the pitch-lines, and the 
development of the tangents. 

It will be noticed that the upper pitch-line is the 
same as that of the return flyers, running down until it 
meets the lower pitch at A. The rail is lifted higher 
than usual at this point, but this is a defect which 
will not detract from its appearance, and makes a 
much better wreath than is drawn with a ramp. 




Fig. 43 shows the face mould for the lower wreath, 
and Fig. 44 for the upper, also sections of rail and 
applications of the bevels. 

The bevel for upper wreath is found at B, Fig. 42, as 
shown in the diagram, and is the same for both joints. 



38 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



The bevels for lower wreath are found at C for upper 
joint, and at D, Fig. 42, for the lower joint. 
The plan of this stair for which the rail is intended: 




FIRST METHOD 



39 



is shown at Fig. 9, which, upon examination, will be 
found to be of a type often found in our old colonial 
buildings. 

We will now deal with a flight of stairs having seven 
winders forming a half circle, with flyers above and 
below. 

Fig. 45 shows the ground plan and elevation of 
risers, the pitch-lines and development of tangents for 
face mould; the upper and lower pitch being the 
same, only one 
face mould is 

required. The 

mould is simply \l>'^f\^>'^'^^ "Z- TT""^^"--^aV V 

reversed in ap- 
plication, as 
shown in Figs. 
46 and 47. 

Further ex- 
planations of 
these figures 

appear unnecessary, as the lines and applications are 
similar to those applied in previous examples, so that 
a reference to previous illustrations and the descrip- 
tions and explanations attached will give a clear insight 
into the method of lining out the present examples. 

The next examples show a method of laying down 
the rail for a flight of circular stairs. Fig. 48 shows 
the plan with cylinder and risers cutting around the 
center of rail and tangents. The joints are located at 
A, B, C and D, making four pieces; the two wreaths 
from A to C are alike, and only one mould is 
required. 

The rail is in one pitch from E to A. Fig. 49 
shows the elevation of steps and risers for first wreath, 




40 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

and Fig. 50 the landing wreath; these are drawn in 
the manner as shown in previous examples, making 




the width of treads to correspond with the points 
where the risers cut the tangents in Fig. 48. These 
elevations also give the exact height as shown; the first 
wreath in Fig. 49 is lifted for the newel, and the land- 
ing wreath in Fig. 48 runs half a rise above the floor. 
The wreaths AB and BC simply rise from risers, 



FIRST METHOD 



4r 




and are drawn as shown in Fig. 48. Figs. 50, 51 and 52 
show the face moulds and application of the bevels, in 
the same manner as explained in previous illustrations. 



43 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

We have now completed the treatise as first 
intended, and have shown how handrails may be laid 
out and made for eleven dijEferent styles of stairs, and 
from the rules given the student should be able to lay 
out a rail for almost any kind of rail he may be called 
upon to construct. The principles involved in this 
method of handrailing are well described in the earlier 
part of this work, and we would advise the young 
reader to again and again go over them, and produce 
the lines on a good-sized drawing board until he 
becomes familiar with the methods. 

We have already given diagrams of the eleven kinds 
of stairs, and have now shown how handrails may be 
built over them, and it is to be hoped these efforts 
have not been in vain, but have been closely followed 
with profit to the student. 

Some of the lettering in the cuts does not show up as 
well as would be liked, but the points referred to in the 
descriptions given may readily be found, particularly, 
if the student enlarges the diagrams to full working 
size — which he should do, when working out the prob- 
lems. 



BND OF FIRST METHOD 



SECOND METHOD 

The method of laying out handrails shown in this 
section differs somewhat from the method shown in 
the previous section, and has some advantages the 
former does not possess. As this little book, how- 
ever, is intended for ins.truction and not to advance 
the interest of any particular method, the editor and 
compiler has thought fit to present to the reader several 
methods — all of them of the simplest sort — in order 
that he may find something he can utilize in each and 
all of them. 

Before building a handrail it is quite necessary to 
have the stairs, and as the "handrailer" is supposed to 
know how to construct the body of the stairs, we shall 
content ourselves with making a few remarks concern- 
ing the height of riser and width of tread. 

After determining the height of the riser from the 
"story rod," the right proportion of tread must be 
found. Sometimes steps are arranged so that it is 
easier for a man to go up "two at a time" than to walk 
up in the proper manner. The reason is both tread 
and riser are made small. When a riser is reduced 
the tread must be increased; and the contrary, when 
the riser is increased, the tread must be reduced in 
width. Joiners do not often break this rule, but 
masons very often do, notably in steps leading to and 
from railway stations. A simple rule may be given 
for finding a suitable proportion. 

Take any suitable step as a standard step, that is to 

43 



44 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

say, if you know of a staircase which is comfortable 
and easy to walk up, take it as a standard to gauge 
others by. Suppose you have a riser given, and 
require the width of a suitable tread, make use of the 
following proportion: 

As the given riser : standard riser :: standard tread : 
required tread : 

If the tread is given and the riser required, then: 

As the given tread : standard tread :: standard riser : 
required riser. 

To work out an example, suppose lo-inch tread 
and 7-inch riser be taken as a suitable step. Let 6 inches 
be the given riser; then by substituting the value of 
treads and risers for the names we have, as 6" : j" :: lo" : 
the required tread. This gives y or iif" for the size 
of a tread. Nicholson gives as a standard a tread of 12" 
to a riser of 5J". Working out the example given by 
this proportion we get 11 instead of i if"; either of 
these sizes will be an agreeable step. 

A rough and ready rule for the usual sizes of treads 
and risers is to make 2 risers and i tread equal to 24 
inches. 

Before going into the working part of stair-building 
it must be understood that great care ought to be 
taken in placing the staircase in any building, and, 
therefore, staircases ought to be described and 
accounted for justly, when the plans of a building are 
made, and for the want of this, sometimes unpardon- 
able errors are made — such as having a little blind 
staircase in a large house, and on the other hand a 
large and spacious staircase in a small house. In plac- 
ing staircases the utmost care ought to be taken, it 
being a difficulty to find a place convenient for them, 
that will not at the same time prejudice the rest of the 



SECOND METHOD 45 

building. Commonly the stairs are placed in an 
angle, wing, or middle of the front. In every stair- 
case openings are required — first, the opening leading 
thereto; second, the window or windows that may 
give light to them; third, their landings. First, the 
opening leading to the staircase should be so placed 
that most of the building may be seen before coming 
to the stairs, and in such a manner that it may be easy 
for any person to find them. Second, the window 
must be placed in the middle of them, whereby 
the whole of the stairs may be lighted. Third, 
that the landing should be large and spacious 
for the convenient entering of the rooms — in a word, 
staircases should be spacious, light, and easy to 
ascend. The height of risers should be from 6 to 7 
inches, the breadth of tread not less than 9 inches, and 
the length about 3 feet — the rule laid down for the 
height and breadth of steps. Workmen are, however, 
not to be so strictly tied to those rules, as shown 
above, as not to vary in the least from them. 
They must endeavor to make all the steps of the same 
staircase of an equal height and breadth. To do this 
they must first consider the height of the room, and 
also the width or compass they have to carry up their 
stairs. To find the height of each step they ought first 
to propose the height of eacH step, and by that pro- 
posed height divide the whole height of the room, 
which done, the quotient will show the number of 
steps. If there is a remainder, then take the quotient 
for the number of steps, and by the number divide the 
whole height of the room, and the quotient will be 
the exact height of each step. 

Example: Suppose the height of the room is 9 feet 
3 inches, and you propose your riser to be about 6 



4«J COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

inches; bring the height of your room into inches and 
divide by 6 inches. You have i8 steps and 3 inches 
over, therefore, take 18 for the number of steps and by 
it divide 3 inches. The quotient will be 6y\, or 6\^ 
which must be the exact height of each risen You 
find the breadth of steps in a like manner. 

Having determined the height and breadth of your 
steps you thei: make a pitch-board which is a triangle 
of unequal sides, one being equal to the breadth of 
step, the other equal to the height, thus giving the 
rake of stair. 

^ig, 2. Fig. I (diagram A) is the 

__/; - ' 1 / pitch-board. Fig. 2 is a 

\ Pia I / ^templet about 18 inches 

N. 7^ long, 2^ wide, which is used 

^^' ' to form a stop or gauge 

« for the pitch-board when 
Diasrram A. you are Setting up your 

steps. Fig. 3 shows the templet and pitch-board ap- 
plied to plank intended for the wall string. 

In the formation of winding stairs much care must 
be exercised in laying them out. The following dia- 
grams show a stair with six flyers and six winders, with 
instructions to lay out and set up the strings. 

It must always be understood that you must lay 
down a plan of your winders, the full size the pitch- 
board will give the flyers. Diagram B is plan of 
winders. Fig. i is the first wall string. Set up the 
first three steps with your pitch-board, then set up one 
riser; take the width of first winder on plan and mark 
it on the string square with the riser; then set up 
another riser and take the width of your other w'nder 
up to the angle, and mark that the same way. This 
angle winder is called the kite winder, You must then 



SECOND METHOD 



47 



allow the string about f of an inch longer for a tongrue 
to go into the cross-string; then cut the string off at 
right angles with the step and allow about 6 inches 
from the step upward to form the top easing to carry 




DUcnnB. 

out the winder. You will see that a piece must be 
glued on the under side of string. I have shown eas- 
ing at top, and also shown ramp at bottom to receive 
base, etc. 

Fig. 2 is the cross-string. Always glue up cross- 
string tor stairs of this description 14 inches wide, and 
then make a line, AB; from that line square off the 
end of string. There is no particular rake for the line, 
it being marked at pleasure. After squaring the end 
from the line you must set in the thickness of the 



48 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

risers and treads as shown in Fig i, then set in the 
other halt of kite winder, then set up a riser square 
with the winder, set up the other winders and the half 
winder square with the end; then allow for tongue, 
'^tc. There will be enough stuff to form all easements. 

Fig. 3 shows the other wall string having half a 
winder and a whole winder and three flyers, and risers 
chat carry up to the landing. The string will be set out 
similar to the first, only the up-risers must not be for- 
gotten. Groove the winder end of the string to receive 
tongue of cross-string; also glue a piece of stuff on to 
carry out the winder and form the easements. When 
setting out strings the pitch-board is the face of riser 
and top of tread, so allow for thickness of riser in^ and 
thickness of tread down, and a little more for wedging 
as shown. C shows the tongues and grooves, F the 
wedging. The general depth for "housing" or groov- 
ing is half an inch. In all cases use glue up the joints. 

In Fig. I the string is not shown finished, but this 
is done in Fig. 3. The strings are prepared first as in 
Fig. I, and after the steps are glued up, rounded, and 
the cove worked on them, mortises are made for them 
in the string as shown at Fig. 3. 

"There is nothing new under the sun," said the wise 
king of old — not even in handrailing, though much 
has been written on the subject since the celebrated 
Peter Nicholson pointed out the true theory of laying 
out this sort of work; yet, notwithstanding all the 
knowledge acquired since Peter Nicholson wrote, the 
art of handrailing has been a sealed book to nine- 
tenths of otherwise good joiners, and to-day it is often 
difficult to find a man who is not a professional hand- 
railer, who is willing to undertake the building of a 
rail over a circular staircase. This distrust, or per- 



SECOND METHOD 49 

haps lack of knowledge, exists even among the best and 
most competent workmen, and is a great retarding 
factor which ought not to exist. 

In order to assist those who are desirous of studying 
this beautiful art I will submit such problems and 
their solutions as I may think will be of the greatest 
service, and which I may be able to select from the 
material at my disposal. 

The proper construction of stairs is an all-important 
part of house-building to both architects and owners, 
as their daily and hourly use affords comfort and ease, 
or tires and distresses, as the case may be, according 
to the accuracy with which the true principle of stair- 
building is observed. Strength and solidity are also 
important factors, especially in stairs subjected to 
severe usage in the passage of safes, heavy trunks and 
weighty packages, as in cases like that in France, 
where, by the falling of a stone staircase a short time 
ago, the lives of scores of unsuspecting people were 
destroyed and a large number maimed and crippled 
for life as a result of a defective construction and the 
overconfidence of a thousand human beings who 
risked their lives upon a thing of beauty which col- 
lapsed from overloading. 

I think there are not more than three flights of stairs 
of similar construction to that just alluded to in the 
United States, the most notable and prominent of 
which is in the State House at Columbus, Ohio. Such 
stairs are supposed to be self-supporting, the wide 
ends of the steps being inserted in the walls of the 
stairway, and the cylinder ends of intermediate parts 
lapped and cut, locking the respective steps together, 
so as to provide a continuous strength to the entire 
coivstruction. 



so 



COMMON-SENSli) HANDRAILING 



The following diagram C shows a very easy way of 
getting out stair-rails over cylinders, i-i-i being the 
face of cylinder, 2 the center of baluster from which 
the tangents must be derived, and is, in fact, one of 
the most important points in the ground plan, for the 
reason that the rail is supported all around the cylin- 
der on the top and center of the balusters. 




DIAGRAM C. A RAIL AROUND A CYLINDER 



Commence by making the tangent as shown; place 
half of the rail each side of 2-3 3; draw level tangent 
right and left indifferently; take the compass, stand 



SECOND METHOD 51 

on left, describe a curve from the spring line at 2. to 
cut level tangent at 5; do the same on opposite side. 

The tangent being unfolded, set up the highest — say 
from 4 to 6 on the left; connect 6 and 5, which will 
give the tangent in the pitch; square out from 6 tc 8» 
and stand compass in 6; open to 7, the center of 
cylinder; draw curve, cutting at 8; continue line 8 
to 9, parallel with pitch 6-5; 8-9 then becomes the 
place of the elliptic curve covering the pitch. The 
breadth of rail in pitch is next to be found, as shown 
by the illustration, carried up from 3-8, cutting pitch- 
line. 

Now to find the pin points to draw the elliptic curve, 
take the semi of the major axis (or half the length) 
from 9 to 10, place the compass in 12, and cut the 
major axis at XX, — XX being pin points for the out- 
side curves. 

Take the distance 9-1 1 in compass and stand in 13 
and cut 0-0 on the major axis, which are the points to 
draw the inside curves by. The bevels are shown and 
how applied on the face of the moulds. 

The cutting and standing up is explained as follows: 
Cut on line from 4 to 5 on either side, and from 5 to 
13; from 13 to points marked V, V, V; from V to 6; 
from 6 to points marked V',V',V',V',V',V',V'; from V 
to 5; hinge on lines so marked and stand in place. 

This is a very simple solution of what often con- 
fronts the young workman when building his first 
handrail. This, of course, is intended for a straight 
stair having a small well hole and landing on a level 
floor. 

Problem, — ^To obtain a wreath for half-space land- 
ing: When the distance between the centers of rails 
is equal to, or more than, the width of a step, and 



52 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



the risers placed half a step from the center of rail at 
the crown of well, the wreaths for this class of stair- 
cases are of the simplest kind, being beveled at one 
end only, as the tangent line across the back of the 




DIAGRAM D. HALF-SPACE RAILING 



well is a straight level line. Fig. I, diagram D, 
shows a large well with the risers 2 and 3 placed half a 
step from B and C; these four steps are shown in 
section at Fig. 2. Draw the center lines of rails I, 



SECOND METHOD 53 

2, 3 and 4, and they will meet at A, which is over A, at 
Fig. i; or the risers at Fig. i may be in any position, 
so that 2B added to 3C equals the width of a step; if 
the distance between the center of rails is equal to a 
tread the risers 2 and 3 would, of course, be at the 
spring line. At Fig. 6 is shown a wide well with the 
risers 2 and 3 half a step from B and C, with the radius 
of center line of rail equal to half a step as 2F, or 
more than half a step as GE. The wreaths may be 
jointed at A, the face moulds for these wreaths would 
be drawn as at Fig. 3, and the straight length AE or 
AD at Fig. 6 drawn square from E and F at Fig. 3, 
and worked to the bevel at Fig. 5 and out of the 
same thickness of plank. The center of the rail on 
the landing would be equal to half a riser higher than 
the center of the rail plumb with the risers. The 
wreath at the start of stairs from a landing is drawn 
as at Fig. 3, and then turned the other side up. Fig. 
3: Mark the plan of wreath and the center line, EC; 
draw the lines AB and AC square to each other; draw 
AD with the pitch-board; draw ordinates i, 2, 3 at any 
distance apart parallel to AC; draw the perpendicular 
lines, I, 4; draw the lines 4, 5, 6 square to AD; apply 
the lengths, i, 2, 3, to 4, 5, 6, and draw the face 
mould through the points 5, 6; make the shank, JG, 
about 9 inches long parallel to AD. Fig. 4: Draw HI 
equal in length to outside the plan of rail, HI, at Fig. 
3; make ID equal to BD, at Fig. 3; make BD and 
HA each half the thickness of rail square to the pitch; 
draw AC with the pitch-board, and draw BC parallel 
to HI; divide AC and CB into the same number of 
equal parts, and join the points I, I and 2, 2, etc., which 
will give the top curve, and gauge the thickness of rail 
from the top curve. 



54 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

To square the wreaths: First, cut them out square 
and joint the ends square. Second, center the joinLS, 
apply the bevel IFE at Fig. 3 (which is set to the top 
corner of the pitch-board), through the center of the 
top joint, and mark the square section of rail, as at 
Fig. 5. Third, apply the face mould on the top of the 
wreath and slide it up the shank until E, at Fig. 3, 
comes to E, at Fig. 5, and mark it; apply the mould 
on the under side until F, at Fig. 3, comes to F, at 
Fig. 5, and mark it. Fourth, set a pair of calipers to 
the width of the rail, and move one arm along the 
mark made by the face mould on the under side of 
wreath, and the other arm will mark, very nearly, 
what to take from the inside as at A, A, A, Fig. 5, and 
cut it out with a band saw; then gauge the outside 
from the inside with the calipers. Next work the 
top, gauge an equal portion of the top and bottom of 
the shank, as at Fig. 5, and lap Fig. 4, falling mould 
around the outside; place the shank in the bank, screw 
up to the right pitch and work the top level across in a 
direction toward the center of the well around the 
curve; apply a square to the top with the stock plumb 
on the inside. Gauge the bottom from the top. The 
top wreath is worked to the same hand and turned 
over before doweling or moulding. To joint the 
straight rails apply the length IG, at Fig. 3, from C 
and D at the spring line of well, at Fig. 2, to B and E. 

Problem. — To obtain a wreath for a quarter-space 
landing: For small wells with the riser, A and B, 
less than half a step from the point C, where the 
space for the steps is confined for room. 

Fig. I, diagram E, shows the center line of ra.. and 
the plan of stairs. 

Fig, 2; Draw the tread, DE, and riser, EA; make 



SECOND METHOD 



55 



ACB equal to ACB, at Fig. i; draw the riser, BF, the 
tread, FG, and the riser, GH; draw DA and CM; draw 
HF to M; draw MJ so that the part LJ will measure 5 
inches; mark the joint, K, 2 inches from L; make J I 
equal to JK, from I to K draw the dotted lines square 
to IJ and JK, a.iH from the point where they intersect 




DIAGRAM E. QUARTER-SPACE RAILING 



describe the easing; joint the top rail square at D 
about 4 inches from F; draw LNO. 

Fig. 3: Mark the quadrant and the center line, BC; 
draw the square, ABCD; set up BE and BF equal to 
NM and CF, Fig. 2; draw AE, and draw FG parallel 



56 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



to AE; draw AH square to AE from G. With the 
length, GC, cut the line at H, and draw GH. 

Draw ordinates i, 2, 3 parallel to GC; draw the per- 
pendicular lines I, 4, and the lines 4, 5, 6 parallel to 
G H; apply ID from J to K, and draw the tangents 
HK and KF; make HO and EP equal to LK and FP, 
Fig. 2; make the joints square to the tangents. 

Apply the lengths, I, 2, 3 to 4, 5, 6, and draw the 
face mould through the points 5, 6; draw the line 
4HQ; make HQ equal H5, and from Q5U and R draw 
the shanks parallel to the tangents; continue GC and 
BD to meet at Y; from B describe the arcs LN; draw 



Fig. I 



^m-^> 




:^^^^'^^~w^ 



DIAGRAM F. FOR ANY SIZE CYLINDER 

NY, and BNY is the bevel for the bottom end; make 
BM equal BF; draw MY; from B describe the arc, 
WV; draw VG, and BVG is the bevel for the top end. 



SECOND METHOD 57 

Cut the wreath out square to the plank and a little 
full in the narrow part. Apply the mould and square 
up the wreath, taking an equal portion off the top and 
bottom, both inside and outside the wreath at the line 
ST, Fig. 3. 

Fig. I, diagram F, shows a better plan of stairs for 
a large well than Fig. 4, as there are two balusters on 
the landing, the same distance to the centers as those 
on the steps, the wall bracket and nosing are much 
larger, and the steps are not so confined at the well 
end. By this method the easing on the straight rail 
for small wells, where the radius of center line of rail 
is less than half a step (as in the last diagram), is dis- 
pensed with. 

Fig. 2: Draw DEF equal to DEA, Fig. i; draw FA, 
a riser; draw ABC equal to AGE, Fig. i; draw 
the riser, BG, the tread, GH, and the riser, HI; draw 
DA and GI. Joint the straight rails square at K and 
L about 4 inches from J and G; draw the falling line, 
KL; draw EN; draw NO parallel to AB; draw KQ 
square to AK, and equal to halt the bevel line, NC, at 
Fig. 4. 

Fig. 3: Mark the quadrant and the center line, BC; 
draw the square, ABCD; set up BE equal to OM, Fig. 
2; make AG equal to AC; draw EG and GC; draw AH 
square to GE from G. With length, GC, cut the line at 
H, and draw GH; draw the ordinates I, 2, 3 parallel 
to GC; draw the perpendicular lines, I, 4; and draw 
the lines 4, 5, 6 parallel to GH. 

Apply AD from I to J, and draw the tangents, JH 
and JE; mark A to P, a riser, and PM, a tread; draw 
MA; draw AO square to MA; draw OH; continue the 
lines HO and JI to meet at R, and draw RE; make 
HF and EK equal NK or ML, Fig. 2; draw the joint 



58 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

F parallel to HR, and the joint K parallel to RE; 
apply the lengths I, 2, 3 to 4, 5, 6, and draw the face 
mould through the points 5, 6; from A describe the 
arc, LN; draw NC, and ANC is the bevel for both 
ends. 

Cut the wreath out square to the plank and a little 
full in the narrow part; cut the joints at first square to 
the plank and the length, PQ, Fig. 2, longer at both 
ends than the mould; apply the bevels and the mould, 
and work the inside and outside of the wreath as 
described previously. Now cut the bottom joint to 
the bevel NKQ, Fig. 2, applied to the beveled sides oi 
the wreath, with the bevel stock held parallel to the 
tangents on the wreath and apply the same. 



THIRD METHOD 

This method is one much used by English and Ger- 
man handrailers in Europe, and as it is based on the 
system formulated by the late Robert Riddell, it is 
also practiced by many handrailers in America. The 
system has been very much improved and simplified 
by Mr. John Wilson, and with the exception of a few 
additions and corrections it is his version of the sys- 
tem that is herewith reproduced, and I am sure the 
student will find the matter as set forth in these pages 
clear and easy to understand, as everything of an 
abstruse character has been eliminated. 

The upper portion of the fence formed on the out- 
side of the stairs is the handrail, to assist in ascent and 
descent of the stairs, and also for protection. It is evi- 
dent that the rail should follow the line of nosings and 
at a height of 2' g" to the top side of the rail from the 
tread at the nosing, measured perpendicularly in line 
with the face of the riser. 

In the construction of handrails the chief difficulty 
is in the wreaths, where the rail is of double curvature. 
Simple curves in either plan or elevation will cause no 
difficulty. 

Fig. I shows the plan of a rail for a level landing 
stairs with the risers landing and starting in the spring- 
ing, the radius of the center line of rail half the width 
of tread. 

Having the plan and center line drawn, the wreath 
being in two pieces and one face mould answering for 

59 



6o CCMMOH-SES^S:* HANDRAILING 



both pieces, to diT.w che face mould. First draw the 
joint line CD, Fig. I, then draw the tangent lines, AB 




i — Uomt^ 



being the center line produced, and BD at ri^ht 
angles with the joint line. AB being equal to half the 



THIRD METHOD 6i 

width of tread, the rail in coming up over this distance 
would rise the height of half a riser, causing the line 
BD to be horizontal; where one of the tangent lines is 
horizontal it is at once used as the directing ordinate. 
Then produce BD, and parallel with it draw lines from 
each side of the rail at D; and from the springing at 
A draw XY at right angles to BC, and place the pitch- 
board as shown against the riser line. Draw the under 
side of rail, set off half the depth of rail and draw the 
center line. Where it cuts the line from BD, will be the 
center of the section on the landing. Draw the section 
as shown and through the top corner draw VT. From 
where the lines projected from the plan cut this line. 
Draw lines at right angles. On each of these lines mark 
off the corresponding distances in plan, measuring 
from XY. Through the points draw A'B', CD', and 
A'C B'D'; CD' is the major axis line, and A'C the 
minor. The lines on each side of D' give the semi-major 
axis for the inside and outside curves for the mould, 
and on the minor the width of mould is the same as in 
the plan. 

Draw the curves with trammel or string and pins. 
The shank may be made any convenient length. 

Referring to the section at the line VT it will be 
seen that if the arrises of the rail were required, the 
dotted line through the bottom corner would give the 
least thickness that the rail could be got out of, and 
the dotted lines at right angles to VT the width at the 
wide end. It will be seen that if the rail has to be got 
out of this thickness of stuff to keep the proper height, 
a slab will have to come off both top and bottom sides 
of the shank. 

Fig. 2: Having cut the wreath out square to the 
size of face mould, allowing extra width at the wide 




62 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

end if required, the piece is planed true and the 
mould applied, and the tangent lines drawn on as 

shown by the dotted 
lines. The joints are 
made square to these 
lines. Mark the cen- 
ter of the piece at 
each end. With a 
bevel set to the long 
edge and riser side 
of the pitch-board, 
draw the line through 
Lhe center square over a line on each face from this line 
as shown. This gives the new tangent lines and the 
distance the mould has to slide. The tangent lines on 
the face mould are held to these lines. Then mark for 
the stuff to be cut off, apply the mould on the other 
side and tack it on, working off the superfluous stuff to 
the lines and edge of the mould. 

The figure represents the wreath worked Into 
cylindrical form and ready for squaring, and the 
shaded portions show the slabs that have to come off. 
In practice this wreath is not easy to mould, owing to 
the rise beyond the springing on the inside. 

Fig. 3 shows a better wreath. Draw the square sec- 
tion of the rail, and through the top corner draw the 
top side of rail for the lower portion, and through the 
bottom corner draw the under side of the top portion. 
Draw lines to the depth of the rail, and from the inter- 
section of the two under sides, draw the horizontal 
line, and mark half the width of tread on it, measur- 
ing from the intersection. Through the point draw 
the perpendicular which gives the position of the 
risers* landing and starting; in this case they are in the 



THIRD METHOD 




springing of the 
well. Project lines 
drawn from the 
springing and the 
section to com- 
plete the plan. 
The face mould is 
drawn the same as 
Fig. I. 



64 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



Fig. 4 shows the wreath piece cut out and worked 
into cylindrical form ready for squaring', the face 
mould being applied the same as in Fig. 2. The face 
mould gives the line for squaring the top off, and a 
better curve is obtained. It will be seen at Fig. 3 that 




THIRD METHOD €$ 

the shank is not in the center of the stuff. The shaded 
portion shows the slab to come off one side. 

Fig. 5 shows the face mould for a large well with the 
risers in the springing. Project lines from the plan and 
draw the section at the proper height above the land- 
ing. Draw the line from the under side of the section to 
meet the under side of rail coming up. Draw the line 
from the joint to corner of the section. This gives the 
inclination of the plank, and the parallel line on the 
top side, the thickness; the bevel at X gives the butt 
joint, and the bevel at Y for sliding the mould. The 
face mould is drawn the same as Fig. I. 

Fig. 6: The quadrant BD is the center line of rail. 
AB, AD are the tangent lines, the other two the 
springing lines, BC and CD, which are at right angles 
to the tangent lines, and meeting in the center C, from 
where the center line of rail is drawn. Then ABCD 
is the plan of a square prism. Two of its faces are 
tangent to the center line, the other two are at right 
angles to the tangent faces, and their intersection is the 
axis of the cylinder containing the center line of rail. 
With the side AD as a ground line draw an elevation 
of that face, AD, EH. Draw the line HI as the eleva- 
tion of the line AD, and the pitch at which that face 
of the prism is cut. With A as center, turn AB into the 
vertical plane; draw BT, which is the elevation of 
AB, and the pitch that the face is cut by. To deter- 
mine the horizontal trace of the cutting plane that 
contains these two lines, produce HI to meet the 
ground line, which is one point in HT, and B 
being in the horizontal plane is another point. Draw 
HT through these points. Having the horizontal trace 
HT and the plan D and elevation H of a point that 
the plane passes through, the Inclination and section 



66 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILINQ 







\ 



s 7^^^ ^ \ 




can be readily obtained. At right angles to HT drav/ 
X2, Y2 through the center C; by doing this the line 
that shows the true inclination will also contain the 
major axis of the elliptical sectioDo Parallel to HT 



THIRD METHOD 67 

draw lines from ACD, and on the line from D set up 
the height 3, 3' taken from HD; then draw the line 
through I, 3', v/hich is the true inclination of the 
plane. From i, 2', C, 3' draw lines at right angles to 
I, 3'; then make iB" equal to iB, 2'A' equal to 2A, C 
minor to C major, 3'D' to 3D. Join A', B", C, D'. This 
is the section of the prism, and to be correct A'B" 
must equal B'l, and A'D', HI. To draw the section of 
the cylinder continue the center line of rail to meet 
X2, Y2 at 4; draw 4, 4' parallel to 3, 3'; then from C 
to 4' is the semi-major axis, the semi-minor being 
drawn. Draw the semi-ellipse which will pass through 
B" and D'. 




Fig. 7 is a perspective view of the prism to assist the 
reader to follow what is done at Fig. i, in order to 
obtain the necessary bevels, that is, the angles the cut- 
ting plane makes with the vertical faces of the prism. 
A, B, C, D is the bottom face, and E, F, G, H the top 
face, and BI, HI the pitches the two faces are cut by. 
Produce the upper pitch to meet the ground line, AD, 



68 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



produced through this point and B. Draw the hori- 
zontal trace. To find the angle between the plane and 
this face, with A as center draw a circle tangent to the 
pitch-line; and to cut the perpendicular AE, draw the 




,M 



THIRD METHOD 



69 



line from the intersection to B, and in the angle \s 
seen the bevel, B and D both being the same distance 
from A (see D, Fig. 6). Referring again to Fig. 7 it 
will be seen that there is a second horizontal plane 
containing the top face of the prism and the pitch BI 
produced to meet the edge. EE produced is a point in 
the horizontal trace in that plane, and the dotted line 
through H is the horizontal trace. Then with E as cen- 
ter draw the circle tangent BI, and cutting the perpen- 
dicular AE, draw the line from the intersection to H, 
and in the angle is seen the bevel between the plane 
and this face. It will be seen that the bevel is found 
the same as at Fig. 6. 

Fig. 8 shows the tangent making an obtuse angle. 

Fig. 9 shows 
the t a n g e n t-^^^ ^'^^' ^- , Pitch. 

making an acute 
angle, the con- 
struction and 
lettering being 
the same as for 
Fig. 6, with the 
exception that 
both bevels are 
found on one 
horizontal 
plane. The bev- 
els are found on 
the principle of 
finding the in- 
clination of an 
oblique plane to the vertical plane of projection, given 
in all books on solid geometry. 

Fig. 10 is a sketch of the block given in plan at 




70 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



Fig, 9 to show more clear- 
ly how the b'^vel for the 
lower pitch is obtained. 

Fig. II is the plan of a 
rail for a level landing, 
the risers landing and 
starting in the springing 
of the well. Draw the 
center line of rail and the 
joint line CD. Draw the 
tangent lines AB and EF, 
which are the center lines 
of the straight parts pro- 
duced. The line AE is 
drawn at right angles to the joint line CD, and with the 
springing lines BC and CF forming two squares. 










1*? 


V. 


x> 








>-• 


. A 




1 

f 


X 


^ 




G 


1 


^ 


c 


Lan 


inc 






y 


^ 




1 


^ . 


A 


y^ 


*^"\ 


C i 


1 


i 




( 


/ ^--^ 


-^ 


N 

A 




1 

• 
• 






-r 




6 














r^Av 









THIRD METHOD 71 

To draw the development of these tangent lines, 
with A as center turn AB around, and with E as 
center turn EF around, erect perpendiculars from 
B, A, D, E, F; then place the pitch-board with the 
risers to the perpendicular springing line at B, and 
draw the under side of rail from where this cuts the 
perpendicular. Draw the horizontal line (marked land- 
ing) where it cuts the perpendicular. From F set up the 
height of a riser. Place the pitch-board, P, as shown 
and draw the under side of rail for the top portion. 
Set off half the depth of rail at both top and bottom and 
draw the center lines. Where they cut the perpendic- 
ulars from B and F draw the horizontal lines, and 
through the points where they cut the perpendicu- 
lars from A and E draw the pitch across the well. 
Through the point where this pitch cuts the perpen- 
dicular from D draw the horizontal line. The dis- 
tance between these horizontal lines gives the height 
the rail rises in coming up from B to D and from 
D to F. In this system the heights are taken from 
spring-line to spring-line, the shank ends are the 
tangent lines produced, which may be made any 
length. 

To draw the bevels, with G as a center on the hori- 
zontal line draw the circle tangent to the center line, 
and to cut the perpendicular from E and from the 
intersection, draw the line to H, and in the angles is 
seen the bevel for the shank end. Then with I as center 
draw the circle tangent to the pitch across the well 
and turn it around to cut the perpendicular above I. 
From the intersection draw the line to F, and in the 
angle is seen the bevel for the center joint. Set off half 
the width of rail on the horizontal lines and project 
them up to the bevels. Measuring along the top edge 



72 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



of the bevel gives half the width of face mould at the 
end the bevel is for. 




Fig. 12 is the face mould, the square, ABCD, being 
drawn the same as Fig. Ii. Having drawn the center 
line the next step is to determine the horizontal trace 
or directing ordinate, for all ordinates must be parallel 
to this line. 

It will be seen that the center line at Fig. 1 1 is 
drawn through the perpendicular AA' to meet the 
horizontal line at T; then A"T is the distance measured 
on AB produced, at Fig. 12, that gives the point in 
HT or directing ordinate, and D being in the hori- 
zontal plane is another point in the trace. Then draw 
HT or ordinate, and draw XY at right angles with it 
through the center C; then parallel with HT draw lines 
from ABC. On the line from B set up the height 3-3' 
taken from Fig. 11, draw the line through 1-3', draw 



THIRD METHOD 73 

lines from l, 2', C, 3' at right angles to 1-3', and on these 

lines mark off the distances taken from the plan. 
Measuring from XY, iD', 2'A'CM'3'B', join D'A', and 
make the joint D' square with this line. Join A'B', and 
produce it to any convenient length. Make the joint 
square with A'B', and set off the width on each side taken 
from the bevel for the shank S at Fig. i. Draw lines from 
D' to C and through B'C, which is the springing line. 

To draw the curve for the inside and outside of the 
rail, continue the center line from B to 4 in XY. Then 
set off half the width of the rail on each side of 4, 
project these to meet 1-3', as shown by the dotted 
lines. These two points give the semi-major axis for 
both curves measured from C; CM is the minor axis. 
Set off half the width of rail on each side of M ; this gives 
the semi-minor axis for both curves. Draw the curves 
with a trammel or string and pins, which to be correct 
must pass through the points on the line CB'; and the 
tangent lines on the face mould, B'A' and A'D', must 
be the same length as B'A' and A'D' in the develop- 
ment, Fig. II. 

In practice, as soon as the line 1-3' is drawn with all 
the points on it, the face mould is drawn on a thin 
piece of stuff with a gauge line run on at a convenient 
distance from the edge. This gauge line represents the 
line 1-3'. All the points on 1-3 are marked on the 
edge of the board and squared over on the face, and 
the distances marked from the gauge line and the face 
mould drawn same as Fig. 2. Then cut it out to the 
lines and square over on the other side the tangent, 
spring and minor axis lines. 

Fig. 13 shows the wreath cut out square through the 
plank, planed true, and the mould applied, the tangent 
lines TT pricked off and the joints marked. The 



74 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

joints are made square to these lines. Square over tlie 
lines on the ends, mark the center of the stuff on these 




lines, then with the bevel for each end, draw the lines 
BB through the center of the stuff. Square over these 
lines on the face on both sides as seen by the dotted 
lines on the top side. 




THIRD METHOD 



75 



Fig. 14 shows the face mould in position with the tan- 
gent lines held to the corresponding line on the wreath. 
The etched part shows the amount to be taken off. 







10 


p 


/ 


i'^ 


-"^ 





/ 


/ 


/^ 




- 9 


/ 


^ 


/" 


C Figf.U. 


R8 













Fig. 15 is the plan of a rail for a quarter-space land 
ing, the risers' landing and starting being placed in the 
springing of the well. The radius of the center line of 
rail being equal to half a tread, the pitch-board gives 
the inclination of both tangents. If a square block be 
cut with two of its adjacent sides to the same pitch, it 
will be seen thai, a line joining the two opposite 
corners is horizontal. This being known, it is unneces- 
sary to unfold the tangents. 

Fig. 16. Draw a square, ABCD, same as the square, 
ABCD, at Fig. i ; draw one diagonal, which is the direct- 
ing ordinate; draw the line XY at right angles with 



76 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



it; and draw lines D and B parallel to the ordinate. 
Referring to Fig. 15 it will be seen that the rail in com- 




ing up from springing to springing will rise the height 
of one riser. Again at Fig. 16, on the line from D, 
set up the height of one riser. Draw the line from 
I through C; a second line is drawn parallel with the 
first. This line would represent the gauge line on 
the stuff for the face mould. Square over the lines on 
the stuff; from i, C/3', on these lines, mark off the dis- 
tances taken from the plan iB', CMA, and 3D, and 
through the points draw the tangent lines A'B', A'D'» 
and B'C, CD' the springing lines. Produce the tan- 
gent lines any convenient length and make the joint 
lines square with them. 
To draw the bevel, place the pitch-board on the side 



THIRD METHOD 



77 



AD of the square with its tread side to the line, and 
draw the pitch through A, which is the inclination of 
the tangents. Then with D as center draw the circle 
tangent to the pitch, and cutting the side CD pro- 
duced, draw the line from the intersection to A, and in 
the angles is seen the bevel for both ends. Set off half 
the width of rail on DA, project it up to the bevel. 
This gives on the top edge half the width of face 
mould at each end. Set off this width on each side ot 
the tangent lines A'B', A'D', and draw parallel lines 
through the points to the springing lines C'B', CD'. 
To draw the curves turn the center lines around to 
meet XY at O; on each side of O set off half the width 
of rail; project these on to the line 1-3', which gives 
the semi-major axis for each curve. On each side of 




M on the minor axis line, set off half the width of 
rail; these give the semi-minor axis for each cur\'e. 
Draw the curves which must pass through the points 
on the springing lines on each side of B' and D'. 
Fig. 17 is the wreath worked into cylindrical form, 



78 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

and the lines shown ready for squaring. To draw the 
lines on the stuff, a thin piece is made to the size of 
the rail before being moulded, and a gauge line run 
through the center both ways. The one through the 
depth is held to the line drawn across the end or joint 
with the bevel, and the other kept to the center of the 
stuff. Mark the top and bottom, which gives the 
shaded portions to come off. The line through the 
center is squared over on each side as far as the spring- 
ing lines at SS, the minor axis line is drawn across the 
stuff parallel with the springing lines. Mark the center 
of the stuff on this line, and with O as a center, and 
the compasses set to half the depth of the rail, draw 
the two arcs as shown. The outside of the wreath is 
marked in the same manner. 

In squaring the wreath the slabs at B and T are 
worked off square with the joints as far as the spring- 
ing lines, then eased around tangent to the arcs of 
circles, the two opposite slabs being worked off 
parallel to the depth of the rail. 

Before being squared the height must be tested. The 
wreath is put in the vice or bench screw, and the sides 
and springing lines set perpendicular to a board planed 
true and laid on the bench top. With one end of a 
rod on the board, mark the point where the center line 
cuts the springing line at S, then move the rod around 
to the other point S, still keeping the end on the 
board, and mark the point. If the distance between 
the two points on the rod equals the height at Fig. 2 
the wreath can be squared, if not, the center lines must 
be raised or lowered to suit. 

Fig. i8 is the plan and stretchout of the tangents for 
another quarter-space landing, the center line being 
struck with a smaller radius than Fig. i. The tan- 



THIRD METHOD 



79 



gents are unfolded and the center line drawn at the 
top and bottom portions as shown. The center line 




^ig. 1 a. 



RP 



A'D' is produced past A', which is the point where the 
center line of the lower portions must meet it. It will 
be seen that if the center line of the lower portion had 
been produced, it would cut the perpendicular below 



So 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



A'. Then the pitch must be altered to lengthen as few 
balusters as possible. This must be done from about 
the center of the last step, as shown by the pitch- 
board. Draw the line B'A' as shown. Bisect the 
angle; draw the joint-line to meet the bisecting line, 
which is the center the ramp is struck from. 




Fig. 19. 

Fig. TQ shows the face mould for Fig. i8, obtained lo 
the same way as those for Fig. i on the last page. 

Fig. 20 shows how the usual 
thickness allowed for the wreath 
is obtained. Where there is a 
different bevel for each end the 
one with the more acute angle 
is used. 

Fig. 21 is the plan of center line of rail for a well 
with six winders, as shown, two of them being in the 
springing at each side. Draw the tangent lines, the 
joint line CD, and the springing lines BC, CF forming 
two squares as shown. 



Fi^. 20. 




THIRD METHOD 




Fig. 22 is the stretchout or 
development of the tangent 
lines. To draw this let the 
line LM be the edge of the 
drawing board; with a bevel 
set to a convenient angle the 
end of the winder and riser 
would give the pitch. Draw 
the line B'B"; then parallel 
with B'B" draw A'A" at a 
distance equal to the side BA 
of the square at Fig. 21, and 
the same with D'D", E'E" 
and FT". Place the pitch- 
board with its riser side to 
the line B'B", as shown, and 
draw the last straight step. 
From the top of the riser 




S2 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

draw the line at right angles to B'B" for the first 
winder. This being the development of the tangents 
the width of each winder is taken from where they cut 
the tangent lines at Fig. 21. Then on the first winder 
from B'B" mark off the distance B to R12*, Fig. 21, and 
through the point R12', with the pitch-board mark off 
the height of a riser; and through the point draw the 
line at right angles to A'X" for the second winder. 
From A'X" mark off the distance A to R13, Fig. 21, and 
through the point draw R13' the height of a riser, and 
drawthe line atright angles to D'D" for the third winder. 
Referring to Fig. 21 it will be seen that riser 14 passes 
through the point D, then Ri4\ Fig. 22, is on the line 
D'D". Mark the height of a riser, and draw the line at 
right angles for the next winder. The drawing for the 
top winders up to R17' is just a repetition of what has 
been done for the others. Then from R17' draw the 
next straight step, and from the top edge of the 
pitch-board, top and bottom, set off half the depth of 
the rail and draw the center line as shown. It will be 
seen that, if the center line at the top had been con- 
tinued straight to meet E'E", the rail would be too 
high over winder 16; then the rail must be lowered at 
F', but not more than half its depth. From the center 
line at about the center of the step, draw the pitch to 
E', as shown; draw the pitch A'E' nearly parallel with 
the winders. In this case it is continued down to meet 
the center line at the bottom. If this should make the 
rail too high at winder 13, then the pitch must be 
lowered at A', and A'B' drawn to another pitch. Where 
the pitches meet the center lines at top and bottom, 
bisect the angles and draw the joint lines square with 
the pitches, and to meet the bisecting lines which give 

*R. 12 means riser 12 on Fig. 21, and R. 12', riser 12' ia Fig. 22; and SO on 
with these compound references. -'iSc^. 



THIRD METHOD 



83 



the centers the ramps are struck from. The joints 
should be kept clear off the springing lines B'B" and 
F'F". The ramps may be made any length. The 
center lines must be marked on the templets and the 
face of the risers 10 and 12, as shown, and transferred 
to the ramps. The lengths of the straight rail can be 
got from these riser lines, and all can be jointed with 
accuracy. 




Fig. 23 is the face mould for the lower portion, the 
drawing being similar in every respect to what has 
already been described. The height is taken from 
where the pitch or raking tangent cuts the springing 
line B'B", Fig. 22, to the line drawn at right angles to 
D'D" through the joint. The pitches being the same, 
the bevel answers for both ends. Where the line from 
B' cuts A' A" at N, with N as center, draw the circle 
tangent to the pitch and cutting A'A". From the 
intersection dpaw the line to B'. and in the angie is 



84 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



seen the bevel. The straight portion of the face mould 
from B' to joint at Fig. 23 is made the same as B' to 
joint at Fig. 22. 

Fig. 24 is the 
face mould for the 
top portion. To 
find the height 
where the pitch 
cuts the springing 
line F'F", Fig. 22, 
draw the lineF'F" 
at right angles to 
D"; then to the 
lineatright angles 
to D'D", through 
the joint is the 
height. Where 
the line through 
the joint cuts E'F' 
at O, with O as 
center, draw a cir- 
cle tangent to the 
pitch and cutting 
the line E'E". From the intersection draw the line to 
D', and in the angle is seen the bevel for the shank end; 
where the line F'D" cuts E'E" as center draw a circle 
tangent to the lower pitch, and cutting the line E'E". 
From the intersection draw the line to D", and in the 
angle is seen the bevel for the center joint. Make F 
joint, Fig. 24, same as F joint, Fig. 22. 

Fig. 25 shows a simple method of finding the 
bevels, and one which answers in every case. Let 
LM be the edge of the drawing board. Square over the 
line CM, and make the line CM equal to the radius of 




Fig. 24 



THIRD METHOD 



H 



the center line of rail. Then at Fig. 

24, with C as a center, draw an arc tan- 
gent to the line E'D'; then with C, Fig. 

25, as a center and the same radius, 
draw the arc cutting the edge of the 
board, as shown; draw from the inter- 
section to C, and in the angle is the 
bevel for that end of the wreath. 
Again at Fig. 24, with C as a center, 
draw an arc tangent to the line E'F', 
and repeat at Fig. 25 for the bevel for 
that end of the wreath. These bevels 
can be tested with those at Fig. 22, and 
they will be found to be exactly the same. 










t 


o? 


H 


■V 




p 




1 


/ 


f 




/ 






a 




R7 




/ 








\^ 







Fig. 26 is the plan of the wreath, showing the risers 
and tangents. 

Fig. 27 is the development, being a repetition of 
what has been done in previous chapters. It will be 
seen that the center lines of the straight rails (if pro- 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



S\ 



>:fi'. 



'^^^.. 



Fig. 27. 



<i' 



duced) would not meet on the 
perpendicular A'. Then there 
are three ways this wreath may 
be worked out by the tangent 
system: first, with the wreath 
in one piece, and to form its 
own easings. To do this set- 
tle on the position of the joints 
JJ (the shorter the shank ends 
the less thickness will be re- 
quired for the wreath) ; from JJ 
draw the pitch across the well. 
The point where this line cuts 
the perpendiculars B' and D', 
gives the height. 




Fig. 28: The pitches of the 
wreatn being equal, the face 
mould is drawn same as those 
in previous plates. 



THIRD METF'^D 



87 




Fig. 2Q h an 
iso metrical 
sketch of the 
wreath worked 
into cylindrical 
form. Cut out 
the wreath a lit- 
tle wider than 
the face mould; 
square through 
the plank; plane 
onefacetrue and 
apply the face 

mould, marking the joints and transferring the tangent 
lines to the stuff. Those are represented by the dotted 
lines. At first the joints are made square to those lines 
and to the face of the wreath. Square the lines over 
the ends as far as the center C; then with the bevel, 
shown at Fig. 27, draw lines across the ends through C. 
From those lines, draw lines square from the end on 
each face of the wreath. The tangent lines on the face 
mould are held to these when marking and working 
the wreath into cylindrical form. When the face 
mould is in its position on the wreath (when worked), 
draw lines across each side of the wreath from the 
springing and minor axis lines as shown. Draw the line 
through C square with the line drawn with the bevel. 
From this line draw square from the end the center line 
JS on the side of the wreath. Referring again to Fig. 
27 it will be seen the center line of the straight rail 
meets the perpendicular springing line D' at T. Then 
make a thin piece of stuff to the exact shape of the 
triangle JST and apply this to the wreath at Fig. 29, 
With the side JS to JS, and ST to the springing line (;lraw 



S8 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



the line JT, which is the new center line. The joint is 
then made square to this line and the side of the 
wreath. This will be repeated at the other end. Then 
test the height and square the wreath. The shank 
ends must be worked off as far as necessary parallel to 
the new center line JT. Should it be necessary to 
have the shank ends the exact length shown at Fig. 27 
the tangent lines on the face mould, B'J and D'J, Fig. 
28, would be made to TJ instead of SJ, Fig. 27, to 
allow TJ on the wreath, Fig. 29, to be the same length 
as TJ, Fig. 27. This would be immaterial in joining up 
to straight rails, as the springing lines are drawn 
across the under side of the wreath and the lengths 











% 1 

L 




^^ 


^ 




1 

1 


^r-^-^^ 


T\; 


^ 


<. 






y^ 




i 


/ 


^ 


K 




of 




.op- 








^9^y 






Urvdmgt » 








y^ ^ 




Fig. 


30. 






y/'^ 


V-' 










y^ 


q: 










PB. 

















are taken from them. For the extra thickness 

required for this wreath the distance ST, Fig. 27, 

would be quite sufficient over what is usually allowed. 

Fig. 30 is the development for the wreath to be in 



THIRD METHOD 



89 



one piece with the easing on the straight rail at the 
top. The face mould is not drawn, being similar to 
those already explained. 




Fig. 31 is the development for the wreath to be in 
two pieces. Redraw the plan same as Fig. i; draw 
the joint line CD, and draw BE tangent to the center 
line and at right angles to CD. Produce the center 
lines past A and F to meet B and E. With B and E as 
centers turn the springing lines around, and project 
them up parallel with CD. Draw the landing line at 
right angles to CD; place the pitch-board at R7 and 
draw the pitch and center line. At RS set up one riser 



90 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



above the landing; then draw the pitch and center lines. 
From where the center lines cut the perpendiculars B' 
and E', draw the pitch in the center of the wreath, and 
where this cuts the perpendicular D' gives one point in 
the height, and the joint is drawn through the intersec- 
tion, and where the center lines cut the perpendiculars, 
A' and F', gives the other points in the heights, as 
shown by the horizontal lines. 

Fig. 32 is the face 
mould. Redraw the cen- 
ter line with its tangents 
AB and BD; produce 
AB to T, making BT 
same as B'T, Fig. 6. 
Draw the ordinate TD; 
draw XY at right angles 
to TD through the cen- 
ter C and draw projec- 
tions from A and B, and 
on TD produced. Set 
up the height H, taken 
from Fig. 6, from where the projector from A cuts XY. 
Draw the pitch of plank and parallel with this draw the 
line through C. Where the lines from TD, B and A 
cut this line draw lines at right angles. Measure on 
these the distances lA, 2B and 3D, join A'B'D' and 
make the joint square with B'D'. Draw the springing 
line through A' to C and on the line from C set off the 
radii of the inside and outside of the rail for the minor 
axis. Turn the center line around to meet XY at O, 
set off half the width of rail on each side, project these 
down to meet the pitch-line for the major axis, and 
draw the curves. 

Fig. 33 shows the bevels. Let LM be the edge of a 




%.32 




THIRD METHOD 91 

board. Square over a line and measure s 

off on this the radius of the center line of 
rail CA. Then with C, Fig. 32, as center, 
draw an arc tangent to A'B'. Then from 
C draw the arc, cutting LM; draw from 
the intersection to C, and in the angle is C| 
the bevel for the shank end. Set <^^ ^ig. ^^4 I 
half the width of radii on AC; project "^ 

this up to the top edge of the bevel; take the distance 
along the top edge of the bevel and set it off on each 
side of the tangent A'B', Fig. 32. Draw the lines 
parallel with A'B to meet the springing line. The 
elliptic curves must pass through these points. The 
shank end can be made any length. For the bevel at 
the other end the arc must be drawn tangent to B'D', 
Fig. 32, and repeated as shown. 

In the system of handrailing, known as the section 
of a cylinder, through three given points, or the face 
mould plane through three points, the section is deter- 
mined through an imaginary solid containing on its sur- 
face the center line of rail, and its base being defined 
by the plan of the center line. The following examples 
illustrate this method: 

Fig. 34 is the plan and development of the center 
line of a rail for a well with two quarter-space land- 
ings, the risers being placed in the springing at each 
side of the well. To draw the development of the 
center line, draw the equilateral triangle on the diam- 
eter of the center line. Produce the two sides to cut 
the line drawn tangent to the center line and parallel 
with the diameter. Between the intersections is the 
stretchout or development, and the perpendicular 
lines S, S are springing lines. Place the pitch-board 
with its riser bide to the line S at R7; draw the line 



92 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



along the top edge where it cuts the springing line; 
draw the first landing at right angles to the springing 




line. On the line projected from the center of th.^ 
well, mark off the height uf d riser and draw the second 



THIRD METHOD 93 

landing; on the springing line mark off the height of 
a riser and draw the horizontal line. Place the pitch- 
board with its tread side to this line, and the point to 
the springing line. Draw the line along the top edge 
for the under side of rail and from the top edge of the 
pitch-board at top and bottom portions, set off half the 
depth of rail, and draw the center line to meet the 
springing lines at S'S'. Join S'S' and draw the easings 
between the two lines at top and bottom, and where 
the line S'S' cuts the perpendicular from the center of 
the well, draw the joint line through the intersection, 
also the horizontal line to the left. Drav/ the joint 
line at the shank of the lower portion at right angles 
to the center line. From the center of the rail erect the 
perpendicular i'3' to meet the horizontal line through 
the center joint. i'3' is the height the bottom portion 
of the wreath risers, and also the height of two of the 
points the section plane must pass through. The 
middle resting point may be taken in the center of the 
development for that portion if the shank is short, 
as in this case, but when the shank is long the middle 
resting point must be taken in the curve, about one- 
third the distance between the springing line and the 
center joint. In this case the horizontal line through 
the center joint and 3' is divided in two and the per- 
pendicular dropped to meet the easing line from the 
intersection. Draw the horizontal line to meet the per- 
pendicular at 2, which gives the height of the middle 
resting point the plane must pass through. 

To draw the section these points must be determined 
in plan. From i', in the center of the shank joint, draw 
the horizontal line to the springing line. Take this dis« 
tance in the compasses and mark the center line in the 
plan from springing to the joint at I. Take the distance 



94 



COMMON^SENSE HANDRAILING 



from the springing line to the middle point at the eas- 
ing and mark the distance from the springing to 2 In 
the plan; then 3 at the center joint in plan gives the 
third point. 



Fig. 35 




Fig. 35: Redraw the plan with the points as 
shown. Join 3 and 2, and produce the line to the left 
and on this line erect perpendiculars from 3 and 2. 
Make the one from 3 the height of i'-3' at Fig. 34, 
and the one from 2 the height of i'-2', Fig. 34. Draw 



THIRD METHOD 95 

a line through the points meeting the line joining 2 and 
3, which is one point in the horizontal trace. The 
point I at the center of the shank joint is in the hor- 
izontal plane. Draw HT through these points; draw 
XY at right angles to HT; draw ordinates from the 
center and each side of the rail at the springing line. 
Across the rail through C and from 3, at the center 
joint on the line from 3, set up the height, i'-3', Fig. 34; 
above XY draw the lines I, 3', which is the pitch-line. 
From where the ordinates cut this line, draw lines at 
right angles and measure off on these lines from the 
pitch-line, the corresponding points in plan, measured 
from XY. The curves may be drawn with the trammel. 
Turn the center line around and draw the line tangent 
to it parallel with the ordinates. Set off half tlhe 
width of rail on each side of this line and project these 
up to 1-3' and to the major axis line, which gives 
the semi-major axis for both curves, the semi-minor 
being on the line. Through C, draw the springing 
line 4'C, and draw the line through 3'C'. The 
joints are made at right angles to these produced 
at l' and 3', as shown. Draw the shaded section, 
and the line through the bottom corner shows the 
thickness for the square rail. In the angle is 
seen the bevel to slide the mould by. The dotted 
line from the top point of the bevel cutting the line 
through the bottom corner of the section gives the 
whole distance the mould has to slide. Bisect this line 
at M and draw the line on the face mould through the 
center of the rail on the minor axis line parallel to 
the major axis and pitch-line. Apply the face mould to 
the plank, and cut the piece square through, a little 
wider than the face mould. Plane one face true and 
transfer the minor axis line and the line parallel with 



96 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




the major axis from the 
mould to the stuff. Square 
over the minor axis line on 
both edges and mark the 
distance from M to the dot- 
ted line at Fig. 35, on one 
side of the minor axis line 
at the top and on the other 
at the bottom. 

Fig. 36 shows an isomet- 
ric projection of the cylin- 
der with the lines on the 
surface. 

Fig. 37 shows the face 
mould in its position when 
held to the tangent lines. 
This is known as the square 
cut. 




Fig. 38 shows the mould marked on the top and bo**- 
tom faces of che plank, the mould being moved along 



THIRD METHOD 



97 



the line on the under side to the distance given at Fig. 

3r, The wreath is cut out to those lines. This is 




known as the bevel cut. The top portion of the 
wreath is the same as the bottom. To make the joint 
at the shank end, it may be necessary to use the short 
piece of falling mould as at Fig. 34. 

This last example is after the system invented by 
Peter Nicholson, and is, in fact, the foundation of all 
scientific methods of handrailing, though the systen^ 
has been very much improved by modern handrailers. 

As this little book is intended only for instruction in 
handrailing, very little has been said regarding the 
construction of the carcasses of stairs themselves, that 
subject being left for future consideration, as it was 
not considered wise to overload this volume with 
matter not pertinent to the subject in hand, and thus 
increase its selling price beyond what the workman 
would care to pay. 

It is hoped that out of the numerous examples given, 
the searcher ^or instruction in handrailing will find 
more than enough to compensate him for the outlay of 
money and time he will expend on this little voltime. 



INTRODUCTION TO METHOD IV 

NEWELLED OR PLATFORM STAIRS 

With the introduction of the so-called Queen-Anne 
and Eastlike styles of building some thirty years ago, 
the newelled or platform stairs came more and more 
in vogue, and at the present time more than half the 
stairs that are erected are of this kind; and this fact 
has, in a great measure, done away with the necessity 
of a study of the science of handrailing by every work- 
man who aspires to be a stairbuilder and handrailer. 
But while that necessity is removed to a large extent, 
the ambitious young workman should make a success- 
ful attempt to master the art of circular handrailing, 
as it will open up beauties to his mind he never could 
have appreciated otherwise, and will broaden his 
knowledge, and enable him to deal with knotty ques- 
tions of joinery with skill and speed. Platform stairs are 
easy to construct when once the plan is determined, as 
newels are placed at the angles, thus doing away with 
sweeps and curves in the rail, or bending of the strings. 
They are cheaper than stairs having circular strings, 
and may be made to have a handsome and impressive 
appearance. The newels and balusters, can assume 
almost any size and style. The stairs may have open 
strings, or closed ones to suit the style of architecture. 
Newels may be massive or slight, "built-up" or made 
of one solid piece, as may be desired; but where the 
newels are large, I would advise they be "built up," 
as a solid newel is likely to check and split and get out 
of shape. 



loo COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

Stairs of the kind under discussion can be made an 
attractive feature in a house. Every architect knows 
this; but no man can build a flight that will be com- 
fortable, or even safe, in a cramped or narrow hall. 
Stairs ,are exacting in their demands, and if these 
demands are not complied with we shall be reminded 
of the neglect every time we use them. We may resort 
to make-shifts (if inclined to do so) in other parts of 
the house, but we cannot put off the stairs with any- 
thing and say "it will do," and no coaxing will bring 
an ill-contrived or badly-arranged flight of stairs into 
use on any possible terms. A good run is what every 
flight of stairs requires. If the run is not long enough, 
then we must increase the height of the risers; and the 
rise, after it has reached a certain point, becomes 
trying, then difficult, and at last dangerous. In many 
houses, in almost all cheap houses, the rise is eight 
inches. Even the back stairs should not have a more 
rapid rise, and for the principal stairs this is wholly 
inadmissable. The other extreme, a fault not often 
committed, is to have the rise too low. 

There are great varieties of rise given to stairs for 
various purposes, and rules have been laid down for 
calculating the proportion of tread to riser. A modern 
writer has given seven different proportions adapted 
for buildings of different classes. His most ample 
tread is 12 in. wi|h a 5^-in. riser; his next, ii^ in. 
and 5^ in.; then follow il in. and 6 in., 10^ in. and 
6}( in., 10 in. and 6}^ in., gj4 in. and 6^ in., con- 
cluding with 9 in. and 7 in. We may say that a 9-in. 
tread is about the least that is usually allowed in prac- 
tice when there is any attempt made to study ordinary 
comfort, although we have met with 8-in. risers and 
8-in. treads in suburban villas, which, of course, gives 



FOURTH METHOD lox 

an angle of ascent of 45 cleg.; while in the seven fore- 
going proportions this angle varies between 24 deg. 
and 37 deg. It is often expedient, however, to make 
it iower than 24 deg. With regard to rules for calcu- 
lating the proportions of steps, some persons maintain 
that the tread and riser added together should equal 
18 in. This would give 13 in. and 5 in., 12 in. and 
6 in., 10 in. and 8 in., and 9 in. and 9 in , and in the 
two latter proportions the rise is too great. Others say 
that the tread and riser multiplied together should 
equal l/j^ in., which will give 13 in. and about 5 in., 
12 in. and 5^ in., 10 in. and 6| in., 9 in. and 7^ in., 
and 8 in. and S}{ in. This rule gives better results 
than the former. Whether the risers are high or low, 
they must all be of a uniform, height. Any departure 
from this rule is always attended with mischievous 
results. If all the risers in a flight are seven inches, 
with one exception, and that one is either six or eight 
inches high, every person who passes up or down will 
trip at that step. No matter how often he goes up or 
down, he will always trip at that point. 

The practical difficulties in arranging stairs to rise 
from one level to another with a sufficient tread and a 
commodious headway are often great, while in con- 
struction awkward problems are frequently suggested 
from the necessity of carrying flights of stairs over 
spaces where they can neither be well fastened into 
the side walls nor supported from below. Not only do 
these practical difficulties have to be considered in 
every class of staircase, from that of a cottage to that 
of a palace, but in all situations where the stairs form 
a conspicuous feature and where there is any pretense 
at ornamental building, its artistic treatment affords 
ample scope for the skill of the architect or the work- 



I02 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

man.. Stairs of this kind, to be effective, should be 
wide between the wall and rail, with one or two flats 
or landings. The rail must be heavy, the balusters 
something more than "broom handles," and at the 
foot let there be a newel, on which the architect may 
display his taste and skill. It need not be elaborate, 
but it is a conspicuous object, and it should have 
something more to recommend it to our notice than 
the cheap and stereotyped forms, which maybe bought 
at the turner's by the hundred. As a first and most 
essential principle, a staircase should present an invi- 
ting aspect, suggestive of an easy ascent, not of a 
painful and laborious effort at climbing. Therefore, 
even if it were, as a rule, possible, which it rarely is, 
to arrange several flights in a direct line, it would be 
undesirable to do so; for, however imposing the effect 
of such an arrangement, it could not but oppress those 
about to ascend it with an uncomfortable sense of 
coming fatigue, suggested by the prospect of one long 
ascent, broken only by landings which would be lost 
to view from the bottom. 

It is pleasant to mount up stairs properly planned, 
especially if they are well lighted and ventilated. 
And if on the first landing the architect can contrive a 
bay, deeply recessed and provided with seats beneath 
the wide windows, he will, by so doing, add another 
charm to the house. Here, those who are advanced in 
years, and who find it difficult to climb one flight at a 
time, may rest awhile, or sit and chat. Here the little 
ones love to pause in their passage up and down, and 
here flowers growing in a jardiniere in front of the 
window, may send their fragrance through the house. 

Stairs may be of wood, stone, marble, brick, terra 
cotta, iron, or iron and concrete. The arrangement 



FOURTH METHOD 103 

and construction of staircases forms one of the most 
important, and often most difficult branches of archi- 
tecture and building. 

Modern stone steps are either solid or formed with 
treads and risers. It was the latter mode of construc- 
tion that probably first suggested the nosing which is 
found in the buildings of the Italian renaissance, 
erected during the sixteenth century It is quite clear 
that stone stairs of the tread-and-riser construction 
require firm support at each end, and it is for this 
reason that they are seldom used except in basements. 
Most stairs, whether in stone or marble, are usually 
solid, and depend for support upon being tailed into 
the wall at one end, and being connected together 
with bird's-mouth joints, by which means each step is 
sustained in position by the one immediately below it, 
so that the thrust of an entire flight is transferred 
from top to bottom. In wide flights — those exceeding 
4 ft. in width — it is often expedient to strengthen the 
connection of the stairs by means of a flat bar of rolled 
iron fixed to their ends with small bolts let into the 
stone and run with lead. Sometimes a bar of rolled L 
iron is placed so that its bottom flange is under the 
soffit of the stairs; and sometimes it maybe connected 
with the balusters when they are affixed to the outside 
of the stairs, after a French method that has been 
introduced with the object of gaining more space upon 
the stairs; but, in any case, it is not difficult to impart 
an ornamental character to the iron stiffening bar, or 
to the screw nuts that hold it in position. When, as 
in some cases, the stairs cannot be tailed in a wall at 
either end, it is common to pin them in between the 
flanges of a raking riveted girder or a roiled I joist or 
channel iron. 



104 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

The variety of materials now used for staircases has 
given rise to many different methods of construction. 
Many modern methods of treatment have been derived 
from stone forms, for the oldest specimens that remain 
to us from antiquity are of stone. The Greeks and 
Romans appear to have treated the staircase purely as 
a utilitarian accessory to a building, and not as in any 
way to be regarded from an aesthetic standpoint. 
Among all the builders of antiquity the Assyrians and 
Persians best understood the imposing effect produced 
by vast flights of steps, as may be gathered from the 
remains at Nineveh and Persepolis. But the ancient 
modes of construction were very simple. For the 
most part the flights of steps were carried upon solid 
masses of masonry, or occasionally upon vaults, when 
the space underneath was to be utilized. The steps 
were perfectly plain, without nosings, and the modern 
bird's-mouth joint was conspicuous by its absence. 

Much the same may be said of mediaeval staircases. 
In earliest forms of spiral turret staircases, a solid 
newel of masonry was built up in the center, and from 
this to the walls was thrown the vaulting, which was 
carried up in a spiral form, and upon which the steps 
were laid without being bonded either into the newel 
or the wall. In later examples the steps were tailed 
into the walls, while their smaller ends, being cut to 
circular form upon plan, were built one upon the other, 
so that they actually formed the newel. 

While these few hints regarding the uses of materials 
other than wood for construction, are presented here- 
with, it is not the province of this essay to deal in other 
than wood in the construction of stairs. In another 
volume, stone, iron, concrete and terra cotta will be 
talked over in their relations to stair constructions, 



FOURTH METHOD 105 

In the following pages I have endeavored to show 
by illustrations and descriptions a variety of designs 
for platform stairs, so that almost any taste, or any 
style of building may be satisfied. I have also added 
some useful memoranda, which I feel assured will be 
welcomed b}^ all workmen having stairs to build. 

Most of the illustrations presented are from Ameri- 
can examples, though I have thought it proper to 
exhibit a few of the curious or elaborate platform 
stairs from the Old World, not so much as specimens 
to follow, but simply to show to what extent of labor 
and ornamentation the old workmen went to satisfy 
their taste. 



FOURTH METHOD 

EXAMPLES OF PLATFORM STAIRS 

It may seem lost effort to tell the workman that one 
of the first requisites, and the most important one, is 
that the carriage of a flight of stairs be built strongly 
and with timbers of such a dimension that any ordinary 
weight that may possibly be taken over the stairs will 
not cause the timbers or strings to "sag" or bend under 
the load. Often pianos are taken upstairs, and these 
may have a weight of anywhere from 350 to 1,000 
pounds, or more, and this stair, with the v/eight of 
four or five men added who will be required to assist in 
getting one of these bulky instruments upstairs, will 
increase the weight considerably. The framework of 
a stairway should be made to resist a stress of not less 
than two tons. Strings for flights having ten or less 
treads, should never be less than 14 in. wide and i}^ 
in. thick, and these should be re-enforced by rough-cut 
strings 10 or 12 in. wide and 2 in. thick. One of 
these rough strings should be spiked or screwed to the 
inside of the open string, and another similarly fast- 
ened to the wall or housed string, and one or two of 
these strings should be placed at equal distances 
between the open and wall strings. The rough strings 
should fit accurately against both tread and riser in 
order to get the best results. Flights of greater length 
should have stouter strings and more bearing pieces. 
If the outside string is supported with a partition run- 
ning to the fioor, or the stairs have a cross partition, 

106 



FOURTH METHOD 



107 



half way in their length, then the timbers need not be 
so heavy; but, it is always better to err on the side of 
strength and rigidity than to have the frame of a st^ir 
weak and frail. 




Turrted cirop 




Fig. I. 



PLATFORMS 



Vv^hen the plan of the stair will permit, it is always 
better to have a platform, A platform built on posts 



io8 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



which reach down to a solid foundation at the lower 
floor, or below, if necessary, is always the best. Posts 
may be halved at the top to receive joists or joist- 
bearers; or timbers may be tenoned into the posts. I 
prefer halving, however, as then we get the whole 
strength of the bearing pieces. In all cases, provision 
must be made for the proper fastening of the newel 




posts at the corners, and, if circumstances will admit 
of it, the shank of the newel post should run down 
below the timbering of the platform as shown at A, 
Fig. I, and on larger scale above the newel. In this 
figure the string is shown, also the lines of balusters. 
There is a sub-rail in this example, which is placed just 



FOURTH METHOD 109 

above the line of nosings. A device of this kind allows 
a broom or brush to sweep clear through to end or 
step, to clean off dust without being obstructed by 
balusters. The platform is shown at N which may be 
continued to suit conditions. A lower platform which 
may belong to the same stairs is shown at Fig. 2. 
Here I show the drop of the newel A, reaching down 
further than the one in Fig. I. The platform N may 
be extended to any length suitable to the requirements. 
Newels running down in the angle formed by the angle 
of the apron of the platform and the outside string, 
should be well secured to both the timber of the plat- 
form and the string. This can best be done by insert- 
ing a handrail bolt in the newel and leaving the end 
projecting out to pass through the timber, and another 
one should be placed so that it will pass through the 
string. Sometimes the newel is placed in position 
before the string is put up, and the center line of bal- 
usters is made to coincide with the center line of the 
newel. This is an excellent method if the stairs are 
open under the string, for then the "drop" can hang 
below the apron and string. The newel can be gained 
out to the proper depth over the joists, and the apron 
can be fitted in nicely to build against the shank of the 
newel post. 

AN OPEN NEWEL STAIR 

I show, at Fig. 3, the ground plan of an open nev/el 
stair having two landings and closed strings. The 
dotted lines show the carriage timbers and trimmers, 
also the lines of risers; while the treads are shown by 
complete lines. It will be noticed that the strings and 
trimmers of the first landing are framed into the shank 



no 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



of the second newel post which runs down to the floor, 
while the third newel drops below the apron and has a 
turned and carved drop. This drop hangs below both 
apron and string, as shown in Fig. 4. The lines of 
treads and risers are shown both by dotted lines and 
etched sections. The position of the carriage timbers 



% 



..dLl 



<\HM 



UllllS 



m 



Well hole. 



m 



Carrx 



vi T'ltTrun 



^ IS 

1 2 3 4 5 6 



I I —L 



8 9 1Q &£& 



Fig. 3. 



is shown both in landings and run of stairs, the pro- 
jecting ends of timbers are supposed to be resting on 
the wall. A scale of the plan and elevation is attached 
to plan. 

Fig. 4 shows the elevation in full with a story rod 
SSiown on the right, with the number of risers spaced 



FOURTH METHOD 



in 



off. Design of newel, spandrel, framing and paneling 
is shown, also "raking" balusters. 

Only the central carriage timbers are shown, but in 




Fig. 4, 

a stair of this width there ought to be two other tin']« 
hers, not perhaps so heavy as the central one, yet 
strong enough to be of service, also to help carry tn^ 



112 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



lath or paneling which may be necessary in comple- 
ting the soffit. The strings being closed, the butts of 
the balusters must rest on a sub-rail which caps the 
upper edge of the outer string. 

The first newel should pass through the lower floor 
and should be secured by bolts to a joist, as shown in 
the elevation, so as to insure solidity. The rail is 
attached to the newels in the usual manner with hand- 
rail bolts or other suitable device. 




Fig. 5. 



Fig. 6. 



The sketches shown at Figs. 5 and 6 exhibit the end 
of the bottom step, which is semi-circular or "bull- 
nosed," also an end view of the lower tread and riser 
with the shank of the newel passing through. The 
position of the newel, with regard to the step, is shown 
by the dotted lines in Fig. 5. 

The block B may be made from one solid piece pf 
stuff or built up in layers and the face covered with a 
thin veneer, as shown in the illustration; and this finish 
is then the face of the riser. The nosing on the tread 
is worked on the end of the stuff, and the cove under 
ihe tread is worked on the end of the stuff, and the 
cove under the tread may be worked from the solid. 



FOURTH METHOD 



"3 



or it may be sprung in place if made of some elastic 
wood and steamed. 

An examination of Fig. 4 will reveal the fact that 
blocks XXX are glued or otherwise fastened in the 
angles formed by the junction of the treads and risers. 
These blocks may be beveled off as shown, or they may 
be left simply as square blocks. This device is to give 
rigidity to the work. These blocks should be put in 
between the carriage pieces, as the latter should, when 
possible, fit snug to both tread and riser and go well 
into the angles. 

Sometimes i n 
landing stairs the 
rail finishes in a 
cap at the top of 
the newel; in such 
cases, the cap is 
turned, having its 
edge made in the 
same shape as the 
edge or moulding 
of the rail, as 
shown at Fig. 7. 
When this is the 
case, some special 
manipulation o f 
the cap is neces- 
sary to have it fit 
properly, as shown 
at Fig. 8. The 
method of finding 
the proper shape 
of the cap is shown 
at Fig. 9. The 




Fig. 7. 



114 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILTNG 



upper section shows the rail, which is supposed to be 
the full size; the lower section shows the cap, which 
may be of any reasonable diameter. Draw the plan of 
the cap as shown, then a section of the rail, then draw 






Fig. 9. 



Fig. 8. 



the joint or miter lines as shown, and from the outside 
points of these lines draw parallel lines with the central 
line A. Divide into spaces as shown by the dotted 
lines, then at the junction with the miter lines describe 
semi-circles as shown, until they cut the line of diam- 
eter. Square down these lines and from them prick 
off the points as figured, and through these prick points 
describe the curves and squares; then, when mitered 
with the rail, there will be no over 
wood to remove. 

To cut the miter on the cap, 
first prepare a cutting block simi- 
lar to that shown at Fig. 10, which 
may be .made from a piece of stuff 
Fig. 10. 2 or 3 in. thick and planed true 



fryty to 



I 



FOURTH METHOD 115 

on the face. Gauge a center line upon it and insert a 
dowel that will fit snugly in a corresponding hole in 
the cap. Next saw two kerfs in the block parallel with 
the gauge line, as shown 3.t aa^ and at a distance from 
the latter equal to the square distance of the miter 
line a from the center of the cap r, Fig. 8. The depth 
of the saw cuts below the edge of the cap, which is 
shown by the dotted line in Fig. 10, is made equal to 
the length of the miter line, as shown in the plan Fig. 8. 
The width of the rail is marked upon the edge of the 
cap. The latter is then placed on the dowel and turned 
around until one of the marks lies against one of the 
saw kerfs. The saw is then run down to the bottom of 
the cut, and the cap turned until the other line lies on 
the other kerf, when the saw is again run in to meet 
the first cut, which finishes the miter complete. The 
foregoing method is the best and most economical for 
fitting the rail to the cap, but sometimes it is required 
that the joint shall be a true miter, which may necessi- 
tate some different treatment in forming the section of 
the cap. This is shown in Fig. 7, where full directions 
are given for laying out the lines for this kind of a cap 

STAIR STRINGS 

It is hardly necessary for me to say much about 
forming a pitch board by which stair strings are laid 
out, but as many of the readers of this book will be 
beginners in the art of stair-building, it may be well to 
devote a small space to this subject. 

A pitch board is simply a piece of thin board, or 
other suitable material, and is in itself triangular. It 
is so cut as to represent the rise of the step and width 
of tread proper. The third or long side being the 



Ii6 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



"run" or "going" of the stair. A sketch of one is 
shown in the shaded portion of the string, Fig. il, and 
its application. The dotted line running through the 
pitch board shows the line of nosings, and the third 
edge or "run" of the board. The piece below this line 
O is a gauge or guide which is necessary to the board, 
for a quick laying out 
of treads and risers. It 
will be seen that the 
height of the riser is 
laid off on one edge of 




Fig. II. 



the board, and the 
width of the tread on 
the other. Its appli- 
cation to actual work 
is apparent without 
further explanation. 



The string shown in Fig. II exhibits a wide tread at 
the bottom, a circumstance that sometimes happens — 
though a change of pitch should always be avoided 
where possible — and the string is widened out by hav- 
ing pieces glued to it, so that it can be "eased-off" 
with a gentle curve, as shown. There is also an "ease- 
off" near the lower floor 
line where the base board 
may butt against it. This 
string is, of course, a wall 
string, and is housed to 
receive ends of treads and 
risers. The mannerof hous- 
ing is shown at Fig. 12, 




FOURTH METHOD 



"7 



where the treads t and the risers r are shown in posi- 
tion and secured in place by means of wedges, ;r,_;r, 
which should be well covered with good glue before 
being inserted. Sometimes treads are formed with 

two tenons at each end which 
fit into mortises cut in the 
strings. This, however, is 
only applicable with closed 
strings. 

At Fig. 13, 1 show a housed 
string between newels. Here 




n 



Fig. 13. 
the string is double tenoned into 
the shanks of both newels, also 
relished between tenons and 
pinned into the shank. This 

string is made 12^ in. wide, which is a very good 
width for a string of this kind, and the thickness 
should not be less than i^ in. The upper newel is 
made 5' 4" long from drop to top of turned cap. 
These two strings are intended to be capped with a 
sub-rail on to which the balusters are cut or mortised 
in. Generally a groove the width of the square of the 
baluster is worked on the top of these sub-rails, and 
the baluster is cut to fit in this groove, then pieces of 



ii8 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



stuff made the width of the groove, and a little thicker 
than the groove is deep, are cut to fit in snugly between 
the squares of the baluster. This makes a solid job, 
and tho pieces between the balusters may be made of 
any shape on the top, either beveled, rounded or 
moulded, in which case much is added to the appear- 
ance of the stairs. 

Two methods of arranging strings and carriages and 
adjusting ends against trimmers are shown at Figs. 14 
and 15. The section shown at Fig. 15 exhibits a 
method of strengthening the stair with simple uncut 
strings placed against the angles of the treads and 



leBIadi 




risers on the underside, and having pieces of rough 
boards — ends up — nailed to the rough carriage pieces 
and made to fit snugly against the underside of the 
tread and the inside of the riser. This method is not 
a commendable one, though much employed, as the 
nails may get loosened by the continual jar that a 
flight of stairs is subject to — a solid carriage piece is 
much better for the purpose. 

At Fig. 16, I show an example of a cut and mitered 
string, with a portion of a tread, the end of which is 
mitered for return nosing, and dovetailed to receive 
ends of balusters. The other steps show how the 



FOURTH METHOD 



119 



string is made and mitered to receive the riser and the 
tread. In the angle at the bottom tread and risers, an 
angular block, a, is shown. This tends to give firmness 
t the structure. The block is glued, bradded, or 
screwed, in place. A portion of a string, partly fin- 
ished, is shown at Fig. 17. On this string I show 
brackets which are about yV of an inch thick, and 




Fig. 16. 

which are planted on the string. The brackets miter 
with the ends of the risers, and the ends or them 
which abut the miters should be the same length that 
the riser is wide, as shown at b. The treads must be 
left long enough to reach over the edge of the brack- 
ets; and the nosings and coves must also be long 
enough to cover the brackets as shown at^and/^. The 
projection of the mitered riser is shown at a. 



130 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 17. 




Fig. 18. 



FOURTH METHOD 



121 



An ^nd portion of a cut and mitered string, with a 
part of string removed, is shown at Fig. i8 in order 
to give an idea of the method of construction. O and 
C show the returned nosings, and the manner in which 




Fig. 19. 

fhe bracket terminates on the nosing; D shows a roug^h 
bracket nailed on a rough carriage piece which is a 
device intended to take the place of a solid cut car- 
riage string. The balusters are shown as being dove- 
tailed into ends of treads. 

The illustration show at Fig. ig is simply a plan of 
Fig. 18, and shows the position of the string, bracket, 
riser and tread. The manner of mitering the riser, 
string and bracket is shown at ^, and C shows the miter 
of the nosing at the angle of the step. 

The return nosings should be fastened to the tread 
either by dowels or by a feather or slip tongue. The 
manner of doweling the nosing 
is shown at Fig. 20. Slot screw- 
ing may be employed for this 
purpose, particularly if the 
Z ?^^^:^— =: ;— ^"^^ g ?^ treads are hardwood and the 

\ '^ ^® 'P' work is to be polished. These 

Fig. 20. screws are first screwed solid 

into the nosing — that end of the bolt being cut like 
an ordinary wood screw — and a pocket or pockets are 



^i h/i/fjJij/M 




122 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 21. 



cut in on the underside of the tread, to receive a nut, 
which is used to tighten up the joint when the nosing 
is put in place, just as the butts of handrails are fast- 
ened together. The nosing shown at Fig. 21 is fastened 
to the end of the tread by aid of 
a tongue or feather which is glued 
into a groove made in the end of 
the tread and left to project the 
proper distance. The nosing is 
also grooved, as shown in Fig. 21, and which corre- 
sponds with the groove in the tread; the feather is glued, 
after which the nosing is driven in place while the glue 
is warm. Many workmen put in these feathers with 
the grain of the wood "on end," that is, with the grain 
in the feather at right angles to the grain in the nosing. 
This, I think, makes the better job. On cheap stairs 
the nosing is simply nailed on, the heads of the nails 
"set" and the nailhoies afterward puttied up. 

A very good method, though rather costly, of con- 
necting tread, riser and cove, is shown at Fig. 22, 




Fig. 22. 




where the cove is glued *nto a groove made in the 
tread. When the work is put together the cove is 
braded to the riser, which ties the tread dowtt solid to 



FOURTH METHOD 



23 



the riser. The completed work is shown at Fig. 23, 
the lower tread a having the riser tenoned into the 
tread. At b the tread is screwed from below to the 
edge of the riser. This makes strong work. The usual 



' y/////m 



Fig. 24. 



^E^ 




~\ 




% 


\- 






\ 


>^^ 


\ 




\^^ 






\ 






\ 


^ \ S^ 


\ 


N 


^\--\ -^ 


\ 






^ 









Fig. 25. 



method of building a step is shown at Fig. 24. Here 
the riser is tongued into the tread above and runs 
down below the lower tread, but fits close to its edge 
to which it is nailed as shown in the upper portion. 

At Fig. 25, I show a quick method of marking the 
ends of the treads for the dovetails for balusters. The 
templet marked a is made of some 
thin stuff, preferably zinc or hardwood. 
The dovetails are marked out as shown, 
and the intervening spaces are cut out, 
showing the dovetail portions solid. 
The templete is then nailed or screwed 
to a gauge block, e^ when the whole is 
ready for use. The method of using is 
shown in the illustration. 

At Fig. 26, I show an exceedingly 
good method of fixing balusters before 
the rail is put on. A thin bar of iron, 
D, is spaced off and drilled, with the 




124 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



small hold over the center of the baluster. Screws or 
nails are then driven into the baluster as shown, 
through the holes in the iron. The rail is grooved to 
suit the thickness of the iron bar and laid on as shown. 
Holes should be drilled here and there between the 
balusters, and screws put through them into the 
wooden rail, which makes the whole work very solid. 
The iron bar should just be the width of the balusters, 
and the groove in the ^wooden rail should be deep 
enough to admit of the whole thickness of the metal. 
Often the bottom tread of a stair takes a quarter 
turn and finishes against the base of the newel post. 
When this happens, some special work on the riser, 
tread, and nosing is sure to be required. Fig. 27 shows 
how the difficulty is dealth with. The riser is left the 




Fig. 2"], 



whole lensrth of curve and return, but is cut out where 
the curve occurs and thinned down to a quarter of an 
inch. A solid block, as shown, is fastened to the floor 
in the proper place, being curved to the right shape. 
The newel is put in position, but is rebated out the 
depth of the riser, as shown. The thin portion of the 
riser is then steamed, glue is put on the block, and on 



FOURTH METHOD 



125 



rbe thin portion of the riser that sits against the block, 
ai 1 whf^n all is ready the short end of the riser is forced 
in the rebate shown in the newel, and is gently bent 
around the block as will be seen. If the work is done 
well, the job will be complete and satisfactory. Some 
worKmen nave concave cauls, or pieces of wood, cut 

_ o u t to place 
against the face 
of the work and 
wedge them 
tight against 
the curved 
riser, by any 
device t h>a t 
might suggest 
itself. 

An elevation 
of the finished 
step is shown 
at Fig. 28, 
where the rounded tread and riser are seen returned 
against the newel post base. 

The plan of 
a portion of 
stair, as shown 
at Fig. 29, is 
given at Fig. 30. 
Here is seen the 
ends of the 
treads as mi- 
tered, the let- 
tersWSindicate ^^^- ^^' 

the wall string, RS the rough string, and OS the out- 
side string. The miters of the risers are shown at aa, 





196 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



which gives the miters as being cut against the string. 
The square spots shown at B, B, B, B, are the 



^Su 



IWS 



Fig. 30. 



dovetail mortises for ends of the balusters. Fig. 29 
simply shows the string receiving the treads and return 
nosings. 

The illustration shown at Fig. 31 represents a por- 
tion of a flight of stairs, having cut strings, S, S, on 

each side. The tread is 
shown at / and the riser 
at/. These are a cheap 
kind of stair and are 
nailed together. This 
class of stair is gener- 
ally intended to fit in 
between walls or parti 
tions, the strings being 
spiked to studding or 
to board timbers or 
wood bricks, as the case may be. 




FOURTH METHOD 12? 

HOW TO DETERMINE THE RISE AND GOING OF A 

FLIGHT OF STAIRS 

I have taken the following from Ellis' Practical 
Treatise on Joiner' s Work, because it seems to me to be 
about the best thing written on the subject, at least, 
the best I have come across. "The amount of going 
and rise given depends chiefly upon the amount of 
floor space allotted to them, and upon the height of the 
story; but subject to these restrictions, there is room 
for considerable variation. To obtain a stair that shall 
not be fatiguing or awkward to ascend or descend, the 
going should bear a certain ratio to the rise. Various 
methods have been proposed by writers on the subject 
to obtain the ratio, of which the following are the best 
known and most practiced: 

"i. It is assumed that the average length of step in 
walking on the level is 24 in., and that it is twice as 
difficult or fatiguing to climb upward as it is to walk 
forward. From these premises it is deduced (hat one 
going one step forward, plus two rises or steps upward, 
should equal 24 in., which put in the form of a rule 
becomes, 

* ' To Find the Rise When the Going Is Knozvn. — Subtract 
the given going from 24 in., and divide the remainder 
by 2 for the rise. 

' ' To Find the Going When the Rise Is Known. — Multiply 
the given rise by 2, and subtract the product from 24. 
The remainder is the proportionate going required. 

"2. The product of the going and rise multiplied 
together is to equal 66. Example: Going il in. 
X 6 in. = 66, and 7 in. rise x 9^ in. = 66. Rule by this 
method: Divide 66 by the given rise or going to ascer- 
tain the proportionate going or rise. 



128 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



"3. Assume 12 In. going and 5^ in. rise as a standard 
ratio. To find any other, for each, addition of y^ in. 
to the rise, subtract I in. from the going. Example: 
Rise 6 in., going 11 in.; rise 7 in., going 9 in. It will 
be noted that by this method the sum of 2 rises plus 
the going equals 23, which affords an easier stair than 
the first-mentioned method. 

"When the total rise of the stair Is known, as shown 
by the story rod, Fig. 32, and the approximate rise of 

the step is given, 
the exact rise is 
obtained by cal- 
culation, thus: Re- 
duce the total 
height to inches, 
and divide it by 
the desired rise. 
If there is no re 
malnder, the divi- 
sor will be exact 
rise, and the quo- 
tient will be the 
number of risers 
required. If there Is a remainder, again divide the 
sum by the quotient, discarding the fraction, and the 
result will be the exact rise. For instance, let the 
height of the story be 10 ft. 6 in., and the proposed 
riser 6>^ in. 10 ft. 6 in. = 126 in. -^ 6^ in. = 19 with 
5 remainder; then 126 in. h- 19 = 6| In. full as the rise, 
and the proper ratio of going to this, as found by th^ 
first method, is 6^X2= 17,}(— 24=^10^4.; but the exact 
going is found by dividing the plan into 18 equal parts, 
as there is always one less tread than the number of 
cisers, in consequence of the landing acting^ as tread 




FOURTH METHOD 



129 



for the last riser. No arbitrary rule can be given for 
the treatment of the plan, which must be subject to 
circumstances. Every attempt should be made, how- 
ever, to dispense with winders, which should be intro- 
duced in case of necessity, when they are better placed 
at the top of a flight than at the bottom." 

All stairs should be so devised that not less than 6 ft. 
6 in., head-room between tread and trimmer, is given, 
but, as shown in Fig. 32, it is much better to give this 
much space from the going line to the trimmer, then 




Fig. 33. 
there will be no danger of a tall man striking the trimmer 
with his hat on his head. There will be cases, of course, 
where to give so much space for head-room will be 
impossible, but in ordinary stairways any less space than 
that determined will surely prove unsatisfactory. 

VARIOUS PLANS FOR STAIRS 

A newel or landing stair can be devised that it will 
serve the purpose for almost any possible contingency; 



I30 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



and in order to make this plain I show a number of 
plans, which I am sure will prove of use to the general 
workman as well as to the stair-builder, as they offer 
hints and suggestions for dealing with almost e\ery 
condition and situation that are likely to present them- 
selves in preparing plans for stair runs which are 
intended to be of the platform style. 

In Fig. 33, I showed a plan of a stair having two 
landings, and a circular-ended step, with dotted lines 
showing trimmer timbers. At Fig. 34, I show another 
plan with the order of going reversed, and with the 
flight between the landings having a less number of 

steps. Fig. 34 only shows 
five risers, while Fig. 33 
shows nine risers. The lat- 
tei example also shows the 
two lower steps rounded off 
to fit against the newel post. 
The flight shown in Fig. 34 
is supposed to be built in 
between studded partitions 
while the stairs shown in Fig. 33 are built in between 
brick walls. 

Fig. 34 shows a plan of stair in the Time St. Depot, 
Liverpool, England. This is rather a peculiar stair- 
way, as from the third landing the stair starts off in 
two directions so as to reach different parts of the 
building more conveniently. The plan shown at 
Fig. 35 illustrates an elaborate entrance and stairway 
to the National Gallery of Arts, London. This is a 
peculiar stairway inasmuch as there are two flights 
leading up to a large platform where the upper flights 
broaden out and carry the visitor to the upper floor 
either to the right or to the left. This is rather an 




Fig. 34. 



FOURTH METHOD 



i3« 




Fig. 35- 




Fig. 36. 



ingenious arrange- 
ment and might be 
made use of in many 
instances for public 
buildings. 

An effective ar- 
rangement for a hall 
stair is shown at Fig. 
36, where a short 
flight of stairs lead 
to a raised dais from 
which a second flight 
of stair springs, in 
which there are two 
landings. The rail 
over the lower flight 
runs from two start- 
ing newels, and fin- 



132 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 







A 








nil 














> 


— 


Q 








— >. 

1= 


izS 


. 



6 




ishes against columns having tfiefr 
base on the plinth of the dais. The 
windows in the rear of the hall are 
filled with art glass, and the whole 
is artistic and impressive. 

A series of sketches for plans is 
shown at Fig. 37. A shows a stair 
with five landings, the first step 
being situated in the center. B ex- 
hibits a similar stair with three land- 
ings. C shows a stair with three 
landings and two starting flights 
leading to a wider flight above. D 
shows a flight with two landings 
and having but one starting point. 
This is a common kind of stair and 
much in vogue, but lacks architect- 
ural effect; either of the plans 
shown at A, B, C, is preferable 
from an artistic point of view than 
the plan shown at D. 

Another series of plans is shown 
at Fig. 38, which show the relation 
of the stair to other portions of the 
house. No. I shows an ordinary 
flight with landing at the top. No. 
2 shows a flight having two land- 
ings. This is an artistic flight and 
is always effective. No. 3 is some- 
thing like No. 2, only reversed, and 
is lighted by a window on the top 
landing. This also, makes a very 

effective stair for a middle class dwelling, and always 

looks well if finished in hardwood. 




nut 






Fig. 37. 



FOURTH METHOD 



«33 



Another series of plans is shown at Fig. 39, with 
parts of the plans of the buildings along with them. 
No. I shows a stair with two landings and a "step-off/* 
on the second landing at O, leading to rooms over the 
kitchen which are used for the domestics. No. 2 
shows a very different arrangement, the stairs being 
built in an inner hall which leads into a conservatory. 
The plan shown at No. 3 is very much in vogue at the 
present time, and is really a very good style of stair. 

A very good "lay-out" for a hall and stairway is 
shown at Fig. 40. Entrance to dining-room, drawing- 



T^oo»f» 



iTlao ) 








Fig. 38. 



TiM9^_ 



room and library is gained direct from the hall, and the 
hall is entered from the street by way of vestibule as 
shown. Access also to kitchen and outer offices, is also 
obtained from the hall. The stairs are well arranged 
with wide platform and is well lighted by two windows 
over the platform; the windows being filled with suita- 
ble art glass. This particular arrangement of hall, 
stairs and rooms is worthy of being thought over by 
those of my readers who may have anything to do with 
designing floor plans. 

I think I have now given a sufficient number of plans 



134 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



to enable the workman to "lay-off" a stairway that will 
'*fit" in almost an)^ situation, or at least to suggest ^o 




K»»*^««lJ 







Fig. 39. 

him how the difficulty may be worked out, so I will now 
leave this subject, feeling that I have done it full justice. 

NEWELS, NEWEL POSTS, BALUSTERS, AND ORNA- 
MENTAL BALUSTERS 

The different styles of newels and newel posts are 
without number, and I will not make any attempt 



FOURTH METHOD 



135 



*>(il'c)jei) 



to describe or 
illustrate more , ^,.u. 
than will give the j 
workman an idea roc^x^^-^ 
of those most com- 
mon in use at the 
present time, and 
a few elaborate 
ones now in exist- 
ence that were de- 
signed and set up 
by old workmen. 
The sketch 
shown at Fig. 41 




Fig. 40. 




Fig. 41. 



136 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



is a design for a large hall and stairway, and is in 
Mercer's Hall, London; the stair is supported on col- 
umns, and shows three landings with balusters and 
newels. It will be noticed the long flight is last, lead- 
ing up to the floor. This seems to be a rule with 
English stairways, as it is argued that there is a longer 




Fig. 42. 

rest at the top, therefore the long rest comes after the 
long rise. 

Another and still more elaborate staircase is shown 
at Fig. 42. This is a stately and palatial class of stairs 
and consists of central flights branching off into lateral 
flights, susTOunded by a gallery separated by columns 
or arches. This shows the main stairway and hall of 
the opera house, Paris, France. 



FOURTH METHOD 137 

Tfte two lateral flights lead to a spacious landing, 
from which a wide curvilinear-shaped flight of stairs 
ascends with wing stairs to the gallery. The elegant 
and graceful lines of this staircase make it almost 
unique among great modern examples. The architect 
has introduced the ramping arch below the flights, and 
by curving the balustrades outward has given ease of 
ascent and grace of outline. Round the gallery rise 
coupled columns of red polished granite with Ionic 
capitals carrying entablatures and arches, above which 
runs a rich truss cornice. Over the cornice on each side 
are rows of lunettes, surmounted by the fine vaulted 
quadrangular domical ceiling. Much of the grandeur 
oi this staircase is due to the surrounding gallery, 
which impresses the visitor on ascending. The mag- 
nificence of the escalier d'honneur is heightened by the 
arrangement of the minor stair and the open loggia and 
vestibule. As a model of planning the Paris Opera 
House stands pre-eminent. It forms a long rectangle, 
flanked by projecting annexes, which give much variety 
to its length. There are three parts or divisions sym- 
metrically disposed to the major and minor axes: the 
stage occupying the whole breadth of the building; the 
theater proper, or auditorium, forming the center of 
the building, and including the grand staircase; and, 
lastly, the promenade and open loggia in front. The 
staircase hall forms a square and complete structure 
between the foyer or promenade and auditorium, and 
is surrounded by corridors. The plan of this building 
is an instance of the centralizing mind of the French; 
every organic function is expressed in the structure. 
In a large public building the staircase performs an 
essentially distinct and public function, and too much 
prominence cannot be bestowed upon it. 



13^ 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



The newels and panel-carved balustrade shown at 
Fig. 43 exhibits an extremely rich example of six- 
teenth century work. All this is taken from work still 
standing in a house at Greenwich, England. 




Fig. 43. 

The interior ©f the house is very nearly in its original 
state. There is a very curious internal court. The 
rooms have several good door-cases and ornamental 
plaster ceilings. 

Fig. 44 is a plan of the stairs, showing the double 



FOURTH METHOD 



139 



approach. The sketch, Fig. 45, shows the half section 
of handrail. Fig. 46 shows section of the entaolature 
under steps with the carved pendant under newel; and 
Fig. 47 shows the top of one of the newels at large. 
Stairs finished in this manner are J 

coming into vogue again, and a num- "^ " 

ber of similar ones have been built in 
our larger cities where cost was only 
a secondary consideration. Stairs of 
this kind, to be effective, should be 
massive m appearance; the newels 
should be heavy and the carving done 
in the solid. The newels in the 





Fig. 44. Fig. 45. 

example shown, are rather light in appearance, but 
the whole mass is quite impressive. The details, 
Figs. 45, 46 and 47, are left to a larger scale than the 
main illustration so that the workman may the easier 
enlarge and copy them for actual work, if he so desires. 



I40 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 46. 



FOURTH METHOD 



T4T 



A flight of stairs with newels, having carved balus- 
trade, strings and newels, is shown at Fig. 48. This is a 




Fig. 48. 

French design, and has a very broad rail elabc-rately 
wrought. The carved string is a special feature of thU 



142 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



example, so also are the square carved vases that sur- 
mount the newels. It will be noticed that the newels' 
in this example are much larger in section than those 

shown in Fig. 43. 
This is, I think, a 
gain in appearance. 
It will be noticed 
that the central orna- 
ment on the finished 
faces of the newels 
is partly turned and 
partly carved, so 
must necessarily be 
planted on, as are 
perhaps the other 
carvings. 

A curious example 
of a newel post is 
shown at Fig. 49, 
which represents a 
portion of a stair- 
way in the Hotel 
Cluny, Paris, France. 
The stair has a close 
heavy rectangular 
string with carved 
rosettes sunk flush 
on both sides. The 
balusters are square 
in section and are 
massive, with all the 
mouldings worked on the rake of the stairs on two 
sides, and square across on the upper and lower sides. 
This style of baluster is quite common in Europe and 




Fig. 49. 



FOURTH METHOD 



M3 



is really quite effective. Another peculiarity of this 




Fig. 50. 

stair is the upper portion of the newel which runs up 
to the ceiling, and is carved on its four faces with 



144 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

various emblematical devices. This gi\'cs tlie whole 
work rather an odd appearance. 

A modern stairway with landings is shown at Fig^. 
50. This is in Colonial style and has a very cozy and 
inviting appearance. This example is taken from a 
New England house, and is noted for the width of 
stairway and breadth of tread; the rise being little 
more than five inches. A peculiarity of this stairway 
is the twin newels at the main landing. This is a 
departure from the general practice, and is employed 
here for ^architectural effect. The newels are plain, 
yet they are quite effective. The balusters are heavy 
and placed pretty close together. 

Another staircase of recent design and intended for 
a house in Philadelphia, Pa., is illustrated at Fig. 51. 
This is in Colonial style and shows a semi-circular 
finish on end of bottom tread and riser. Sections of the 
newels are octagon, and the rails are finished against 
the newels with a "goose-neck" curve and square. 
The landing turns at right angles. 

The illustration offers a number of excellent sugges- 
tions for work other than for the stairs. 

The examples shown of stairs in place, I think, are 
quite enough to give the workman an idea as to their 
treatment, so I will now offer a few designs for newels 
and balusters, and a few remarks as to their treatment. 

There is no end to designs for newel posts, yet it is 
a strange fact that when a workman undertakes to 
design a newel for any particular stair he may be 
building, he finds it very difficult to decide upon the 
exact design he has in mind. This is owing to the 
fact that the workman possesses a certain amount of 
art instinct, and his mind requires for its satisfaction 
a newel suited to the fitness of the situation. An 



FOURTH METHOD 



MS 




Fi^. 51. 



146 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 

elaborate stairway demands an elaborate newel and 
baluster, yet both must be in keeping with the surround- 
ings as well as in keeping with the stairway. A good 




Fig. 52. 



illustration of this is exemplified in Fig. 51, where all 
the work seems to have a like character. Another 
illustration of the true fitness of things is shown in 



FOURTH METHOD 



147 



Fig. 52. In this example there is a quiet Quaker-like 
repose both in stairway and finish, yet the observer 
cannot but be impressed with the wealth and dignity 
of the whole design. The newels are comparatively 
plain, yet they are effective and seem to be in the 
proper place. The whole stairway, paneling, strings, 
newels and balusters 
are in same finish as 
the woodwork in the 
hall. The mantel, 
which is quite plain, is 
chaste and in keeping 
with the general design. 
The first step is semi- 
circular at each end 
being returned against 
the newels. This stair 
and its appointments 
are well fitted for a 
Colonial house of the 
earlier period; in fact, 
it would do for almost 
any period of Colonial 
architecture. 

The sketches shown 
et Figs. 53 and 54 ex- 
hibit styles of stairs, 
newels and balusters in 

Elizabethan style. The balusters in Fig. 53 are 
square, and those running down the strings are worked 
on a rake; all the members being cut on the same 
incline as the "lay" of the string and rail. This is, of 
course, expensive, but it gives a fine appearance to the 
stairs. The sketch shown in Fig. 54 is taken from 




Fig. 53. 



t4S 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



French work. It shows three balusters on each tread 
and carved brackets under end of nosing of treads. 
The plan of the rail is shown in the sketch at 3. The 
balusters are turned spiral, as will be seen. An 
alternate baluster is shown at No. 2. 

I have given the proportion of riser and treads in an 
earlier paragraph, and it may be well at this point to 

say something re- 
garding the height 
a rail should be 
from the tread. An 
authority says "that 
the height from the 
treads at the nosings 
to the upper part of 
the handrail should 
be 2 ft. 'jY^, in.; at 
the landings the 
height of half the 
riser should be 
added, this varia- 
tion in the height 
conducing to ease 
and safety, a person 
requiring more pro- 
tection when he is 
standing on a landing than when ascending a stairs. 
Two balusters are generally placed on every tread, 
one on the same plane as the riser. In the old close 
string staircases, where massive rectangular or turned 
balusters are seen, one to each step is common. Of 
handrails, the moulded is the handsomest; a roll mem- 
ber with cymas on each side, and a deep rail moulded 
at the sides with ovolos or astragals, is commonly met 




Fig. 54- 



FOURTH METHOD 



149 



with in the older examples and is very effective. 
(See sketch 54, 2, above.)" 

In a recent text book on building construction the 
student is instructed, before planning a staircase, to 
know the position of doors and windows surrounding, 
so that the steps and the first and last riser may be 




Fig- 55. 

fixed accordingly. Advice of this kind is very well 
when a staircase has to be fitted in a given space; but the 
architect, in planning and designing the stairs, ought 
to proceed quite differently. He should first plan his 
stairs, as being the most important thing, and then 
arrange the hall thereto. The "going" of the flight 
or the positions of the first and last risers should not 



ISO 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



be made to depend on the doorways and approaches, 
but these should be adjusted to the risers. Gi\ en a 
space to design a stairs in, it may be a mode of pro- 
ceeding in some cases; but if any attempt is made to 
give the staircase a character of its own, its design 
should be under tsiken pari passu with the hall in which 
it is to be placed. No architectural arrangement can 




Fig. 56. 



be possible under any other conditions. 

Another style of stair is shown at Fig. 55, having 
turned newels at the bottom and square ones at the 
landings. This is a purely Colonial stair with the con- 
ventional shaped newel and baluster. All the rails in 
stairs of this kind are made straight and are fastened 
into the newels with either tenon or stair bolts or both, 
and glued. 



FOURTH METHOD 



15^ 



The stair shown at Fig. 56 is taken from an English 
example of the Georgeon period. Both rail and newel 
are heavy, the latter being surmounted by a carved 
finial. In this example the risers are low and the 
treads wide, a characteristic of nearly all English 
stairs, a custom well worthy of imitation. The heavy 
newels employed in this stair give the whole design a 




Fig. 57- 



massive and substantial appearance. Of course, where 
a stair of this kind is intended to be placed, it must 
have plenty of room, as the run or "going' will require 
a good stretch owing to great width of tread, and the. 
hall or reception room must be large to accommodate 
the stairs and be in keeping with them. 

At Fig. 57, I show a portion of a stair having serpen- 
tine newel and baluster. This style of work is very 



152 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 58. 
troublesome and is not much in favor, as the results 
are not in proportion to labor expended. A, A shows 



FOURTH METHOD 



153 




Fig. 59- 

the style of rail which generally accompanies this 
style of ornamentation. 



154 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




Fig. 60. 



The illustration 
which is shown at Fig. 
58 is adapted from Car- 
pentry and Buildings and 
is a good example of a 
modern stair. The pan- 
eling between the bal 
uster at the top, marked 
A, is perforated. The 
treatment of the string 
is somewhat unusual, 
and it will be noticed 
that the nosings on the 
treads are worked to a 
flat ogee. The drop 
newel is quite plain, 
except the top, which 
is very nicely wrought. 
The rail enters the top 
newel with a goose-neck 
curve. The rosettes on 
the string are let in 
flush. The section of 
the fluted shaft of newel 
is circular, as shown 
by the shaded portion. 
Details of rail and 
treads are shown on the 
top of illustration. 

Another style of 
stairs is shown at Fig. 
59. A part of the pan- 
eled wainscot is shown, 
also lower spandrii and 



FOURTH METHOD 



^55 




Fig. 6i. 



T56 COMMON-SENSE RANDRAILTNG 



paneling of platform. Fig. 6o shows a portion of the 
newel and a baluster with section of rail drawn to a 
larger scale. 




Fig. 62. 



Fig. 63. 



Fig 61 shows a built-up newel, and a couple of tread 
ends and a part of baluster; it also shows the rail with 



FOURTH METHOD 



157 



ramp entering the newel post. The bottom tread is 
partly returned against the base of newel. 

The example shown in Fig. 62 may be put down as 
one seldom required in this country, though I have 




Fig. 64. 

seen it, or one very similar, employed on a stairway 
leading to a gallery or speaker's platform. It is 
almost a solid balustrade. 

Fig. 63 is of a style often employed in and about 
public buildings in England, Belgium and France. 



158 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



In styles of this kind there is no regularity; the newels 
and balusters may be of a different pattern on each 
flight of stairs; they offer an abundance of opportunity 
for a display of originality of design on the part of the 
architect. 

The example shown at Fig. 64 is taken from a stair- 
way in St. Jacob's Church, Bruges. The newel is a 

carved figure 
which is said to 
be one of the 
finest pieces of 
carving in Eu- 
rope. The rail 
and sub-rail are 
heavy, and the 
spaces between 
them are filled 
with fine carvings 
instead of balus- 
ters. The string 
is also carved 
with a running 
wreath. The 
whole is nride of 
heavy oak. The 
work is over two 
hundred years 
old and is in excellent preservation at this date. 

A couple of commonplace newels are illustrated at 
Figs. 65 and 66. The first is simply a turned post with 
an octagon base and flat facets, or neck, and surbase. 
The second example belongs to the so-called Queen 
Anne style It is neither more nor less than a square 
post with a few ornaments worked on two sides on a 




Fig. 66. 



FOURTH METHOD 



159 



rake with the line of rail, and has chamfered corners. 

The ornaments are worked 

square across the lower and 

upper faces from the lines of 

the raking ornaments where 

they cut the angles of the 

post. 

The example of newel 
shown in Fig. 67 is from the 
Cincinnati school of design, 
of which Benn Pitman was 
principal. This newel was 
carved by a young lady, Miss 
Louise Nourse, and is worked 
to over two inches relief pro- 
jecting one inch over the 
border. The entire height 
of a newel is 4 ft. 9 in. It is 
illustrated here as an exam- 
ple of what may be done by 
the ordinary workman if he 
only apply himself to the 
task. Newel posts offer 
splendid opportunities to the 
carver. 

The newels shown at Figs. 
68 and 69 are octagon in sec- 
tion and are rather elaborate 
in finish. This style of 
newel is often made use of, 
but I confess I do not like 
them; they seem more like 
pedestals than newels, and are certainly vulgar when 
made up with different coiored woods. They are also 




Fig. 67. 



i6o COMMON.SENSE HANDRAILING 



unnecessarily costly, as they entail considerable labor 
in the making up; particularly is this true of Fig. 68, 




^^ 




Fig. 68. 



Fig. 69. 



as all the mouldings must be mitered around the cap 
and the base. The result is not worth the labor, as the 
architectural effect is disappointing. 



FOURTH METHOD 



i6i 



I will close my remarks on 
newels and newel posts by offer- 
ing a few examples of quaint 
design culled from domestic and 
foreign sources; the example 
shown at Fig. 70 is taken from 
a stairway in Boston. This is a 
handsome design, but has one 
fault: the central column looks 
too much like a screw. It gives 
one the impression of a jack screw 
for raising great weights. If this 
column was fluted, the effect 
would be much more pleasing. 

The carved newel shown at Fig. 
71 is drawn from an example at 





Fig. 71. 



Fig. 70. 

Argeles on the Spanish 
frontier near the Pyrenees. 
The one shown at Fig. 72 is 
at Tuz, a small town near 
Argeles. 

The three examples shown 
at Figs. 73, 74 and 75 are 
from the same neighborhood 
as are those shown in Figs. 
71 and 72. They are quaint 
and odd, and are generally 
placed in small narrow halls 
dimly lighted, and are apt to 



l62 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




startle a stranger when he first 
enters. The examples offered are 
among the best, but there are 
some that rise above the head, 
and are topped off with hideous 
faces or grinning skulls and other 
uncanny things. 

BALUSTERS OF VARIOUS KINDS 

Before giving any designs for 
balusters, it may be well to say 
something about their arrange- 
ment with regard to their relation 
of length, rail and tread. Some- 
times the architect who designs 
the stair may have very decided 
ideas as to the manner of arrang- 




Fig. 7z. 



Fig- 74. 



FOURTH METHOD 



163 



ing the balusters, and I give a few examples arranged 
differently in a stair having rail, string and baluster 
about the same. Fig. y6 shows one of the ordinary 
methods where the turnings are all of one length, and 
thus all the squares 
run parallel with 
the handrail. In 
Fig. yy the turn- 
ings are of two 
different lengths, 
the upper squares 
being all of one 
length and running 
parallel with the 
handrail, the bot- 
tom squares being 
all the same length 
and thus each pair 
being parallel with 
their respective 
treads, the middle 
member of the 
turning usually 
being arranged as 
shown. A method 
that is perhaps 
not much in gen- 
eral use is shown 
in Fig. 78, where 

the turnings are all of the same length and the bottom 
squares equal, but the bottom ledges of the upper 
squares of each baluster run parallel with their 
respective treads, producing long and short upper 
squares alternately, as shown. It will be seen that 




Fig. 75- 



i64 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 




after all the difference in these examples is altogether 
in the lengths of the turned part of the baluster. 



FOURTH METHOD 



i6S 



The patterns for balusters shown 
at Fig. 79 may be suggestive. Bal- 
usters of this kind may be obtained 
at any well-equipped factory any 
length or size that may be required. 

A few Colonial balusters and a 
spiral newel are shown at Fig. 80. 
This makes a handsome termination 
for a stairway. 



on^tSi^A^e. 




t)e^dil•o|!. 
•At5e«ondRoor 

Fig. 81. 




Fig. 80. 

Samples of spi- 
ral balusters, with 
rail, newel, string 
and drop, are 
shown at Fig. 81. 
In this example 
the balusters are 



i66 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



shown rein- 
forced by bent 
iron scroll 
work; this has 
a charming 
effect in many 
cases, and I 
know of one in- 
stance, in New 
York City, 
where the scroll 
work was of 
brass, the bal- 
usters enam- 
elled cream, the 
rail solid ma- 
hogany, and 
the result was 
actually beauti- 
ful. The wood- 




Fig. 83. 



Fig. 82. 

work in the hall was also 
cream-colored, and the light 
from the outside passed 
through amber-colored glass. 
Another style of baluster, 
newel and string is exhib- 
ited at Fig. 82. The newel 
is formed at the first plat- 
form, there being three risers 
up to the platform. The 
balusters are simple, and the 



FOURTH METHOD 



167 



whole illustration is given here more to show the 
method of raising the newel and balusters than for any- 
other purpose. 

Another style of baluster, string and rail is shown 
at Fig. 83. The baluster in this case is simply a square 
with two of its sides bevelled and cut in between the 





Fig. 84. 



Fig. 85. 





Fig. 86. 



Fig. 87. 



lail and the sub-rail. The little panels running raking 
with the rails are also cut in, or let into grooves in bal- 
uster and rail. Other portions of the illustration are 
self-explanatory. 

These examples of newels and balusters, I think, are 
sufficient, as trade catalogues from factory and shop. 



i68 COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



contaning- hundreds of set designs, may be obtained 
for the asking. 



MISCELLANEOUS ITEMS 



Under this head I purpose showing a few things not 
generally included in works of this kind, but which 




Fig. 88. 




Fig. 90. 




Fig. 89. 




Fig. 91- 



will be found very useful to the general workman as 
well as to the specialist in stair-building. 

The illustrations shown in Figs. 84 to 91, inclusive, 
exhibit a number of different designs for stop cham- 



FOURTH METHOD 



169 



fering. These will be found useful in determining the 
style of step for chamfering the corners of a newel 
post, and in many other instances as well. Some of 
these chamfers and stops are quite elaborate and will 
require considerable labor to work them out in good 
form; particularly is this true of Figs. 86 and 89, as 
one has a concave and the other a convex surface, and 
Fig. 89 has an ornamental termination. 

Besides these styles of stops there are many others, 
the simplest of which is just a bevel ending of any 
pitch and the ogee ending, and 
several others of which nearly 
every workman is familiar. 

The illustration shown at Fig. 92 
gives the method of obtaining a 
reduced pattern for a bracket as 
required for the ends of winders 
Upon the top edge of the bracket (^ 
used for the flyers describe an 
equilateral triangle. Divide the 
contour of the bracket into a 
number of parts, and draw lines 
from divisions perpendicular to 
the top or base of the triangle. 

From these intersections draw lines to the apex of the 
triangle. Next mark upon the sides of the triangle, 
from the apex, the length of the bracket required. 
Join these points by a line, a a, which is parallel with 
the base, and upon the points where the line cuts the 
lines drawn to the apex, erect perpendiculars; make 
them equal in length to the corresponding lines drawn 
on the original bracket. 

The eight illustrations shown in Fig. 93 give brackets 
and sections of handrails of various kinds, arwd is 




Fig. 92. 



I70 COMMON.SENSE HANDRAILINQ 




Fig. 93- 



FOURTH METHOD 171 

offered as a supplement to the page of handrail sec- 
tions shown in part three of this work. In the exam- 
ples given the centers of the curves forming the hand- 
rails are given, and the sizes of the rails are marked on 
the sections in two instances. The numbers 5 to 8, 
inclusive, show patterns for brackets which may be 
made to suit almost any style of stairs. Other pat- 
terns will be found illustrated in previous pages of this 
work in connection with examples of platform stairs. 

TABLES 

The following tables which are taken from the 
Builder and Woodworker^ but which I believe were first 
prepared by The California Architect, will be found very 
useful to those "figuring" on the run and rise of stairs. 
The spacing of the lines of figures into groups aids the 
eye in following the direction to the final point. 

Directio7is: — In the column beginning with the rise of 
step desired, find the height of story from top of floor 
to top of floor, then follow this line to the column 
under risers, which gives the number of risers. In 
the column under "treads" find the number of risers, 
less one, and on this line under the column of width of 
tread will be the length of run. 



172 



COMMON-SENSE HANDRAILING 



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STAIRCASE NEWEL AND RAIL 



A GLOSSARY OF TERMS USED IN 
STAIR-BUILDING AND HAND- 
RAILING 

A Flight. — A continued series of steps without a break. 

Axis. — In architecture an imaginary line through the 
center of a column, etc., or its geometrical repre- 
sentation; where different members are placed 
over each other so that the same vertical line on 
the elevation divides them equally, they are said to 
be on the same axis, although they may be on 
different planes; thus triglyphs and modillions 
are so arranged that one coincides with the axis 
or line of axis of each column; in like manner the 
windows or other openings in the several stories 
of a fa9ade must all be in the same respective axis 
whether they are all of the same breadth or not. 
In geometry^ the straight line in a plane figure 
about which it revolves to produce or generate a 
solid. In mechanics, the axis of a balance is the 
line upon which it moves or turns. In turning, an 
imaginary line passing longitudinally through the 
middle of the body to be turned, from one point 
to the other of the two cones, by which the work 
is suspended or between the back center and the 
center of the collar of the puppet which supports 
the end of the mandril at the chuck. 
175 



176 GLOSSARY 

Baluster. — A small column or post turned of different 
forms and sizes, forming an ornamental enclosure 
and supporting the handrail ; generally two to a step. 

Balustrade. — A series or row of balusters joined by a 
rail, serving for a rest to the arms, or as a fence or 
enclosure to balconies, altars, staircases, etc. 
Balustrades when intended for use or against 
windows or flights of steps, terraces and the like, 
should not be more than 3 feet 6 inches, nor less 
than 3 feet in height. When used for ornament, 
as on the summit of a building, their height may be 
from two-thirds to four-fifths of the entablature 
whereon they are employed, and this proportion is 
to be taken exclusive of their zoccolo or plinth, so 
that from the proper point of sight the whole bal- 
ustrade may be exposed to view, There are vari- 
ous species of balusters; if single-bellied the best 
way is to divide the total height of the space 
allotted for the balustrade into thirteen equal 
parts, the height of the baluster to be eight, of the 
base three, and of the cornice two of those parts; 
or divide the total height into fourteen parts, 
making the baluster eight, the base four, and the 
cornice two. If double-bellied the height should 
be divided into fourteen parts, two of which are to 
be given to the cornice, three to the base and the 
remainder to the baluster. 

The distance between two balusters should not 
be more than half the diameter of the baluster in 



GLOSSARY 177 

its thickest part, nor less than one-third of it; but 
on inclined planes the intervals should not be 
quite so wide. 

Butt Joint. — An end joint made at right angles to the 
central tangent of a wreath piece; and also an end 
joint made at right angles to any straight length 
of handrail. 

Carriage. — The timber work which supports the steps 
of a wooden stair. 

Close String. — In dog-leg stairs a staircase without an 
open newel. 

Cockel Stairs. — A winding staircase. 

Circular Stairs are stairs with steps planned in a circle 
toward the center of which they all converge and 
are all winders.. 

Curve-out. — A concave curve of the face of a front- 
string at its starting. 

Curtail Step. — The first step by which a stair is 
ascended, finishing at the end in a form of a scroll 
following the plan of the handrail. — NicholsoJi. 

Cylinder. — A cylinder is a solid described by geometri- 
cians as generated by the rotation of a rectangle 
about one of its sides supposed to be at rest; this 
quiescent side is called the axis of the cylinder^ 
therefore the base and top of the cylinder are 
equal or similar circles. 

K prism is a solid, whose base and top are similar 
right line figures, with sides formed in planes, and 
rising perpendicularly from the base to the top. 



178 GLOSSARY 

The cylinder^ so called hy joiners, is a solid figure 
compounded of the two last mentioned figures; its 
base is composed of a semicircle joined to a right- 
angled parallelogram. This last compound figure 
is intended whenever the word cylinder occurs in 
the preceding work unless the word geometrical 
be prefixed. 

Dog-legged Stairs. — Such as are solid between the upper 
flights, or those that have no well-hole; and the 
rail and balusters of both the progressive and 
retrogressive flight fall in the same vertical plane. 
The steps are fixed to strings, newels and 
carriages; and the ends of the steps of the inferior 
kind terminate only on the side of the string. — 
Nicholsofi. 

Elliptic Stairs. — Stairs that are elliptic on the plan, the 
treads all converging, but not to one center like 
those of a circular stair. 

Face Mould. — A section produced on any inclined plane 
vertically over a curved plan of handrail. 

Flight of Stairs. — In a staircase the series of steps 
from one landing place to another. Thus the 
same staircase between one floor and another may 
consist of more than one flight of steps, the flight 
being reckoned from one landing to another. 

Front String. — The string on that side of the stair over 
which the handrail is placed. 

Fillet. — A band i% inches wide by ^ inch thick 
nailed to the face of a front string below the cove 
and extending the width of a tread. 



GLOSSARY 179 

Flyers. — Steps in a flight that are parallel to each other. 

Geometrical Stair. — A flight of stairs supported only by 
the wall at one end of the steps. 

Half-space, or resting place. — The interval between two 
flights of steps in a staircase. 

Hall. — The first large apartment on entering a house; 
the public room of a corporative body ; a manor- 
house. 

Handrail. — A variously formed and sized rail running 
parallel to the inclination of the stairs for holding 
the balusters. 

Hollow Newel. — An opening in the middle of the stair- 
case. The term is used in contradistinction to 
solid newel^ into which the ends of the steps are 
built. In the hollow newel, or well-hole, the steps 
are only supported at one end by the surrounding 
wall of the staircase, the ends next the hollow 
being unsupported. — Nicholson. 

Helix. — The small twist under the head of a Corinthian 
column. 

Housing. — The space excavated out of a body, for the 
insertion of some part of the extremity of another 
in order to fasten the two together; thus the 
string-board of a stair is most frequently exca- 
vated, or notched out for the reception of steps. 
The term is also applied to a niche for containing 
a statue. — Nicholson. 

Joint. — The surface of separation between two bodies 
brought into contact and held firmly together. 



i8o GLOSSARY 

either by some cementing medium or by the 
weight of one body lying upon another. A joint 
is not merely the contact of two surfaces, though 
the nearer they approach the more perfect the 
joint. In masonry the distance of the planes 
intended to form a joint is comparatively consid- 
erable because of the coarseness of the particles 
which enter into the composition of the cement. 

Kerf. — A slit or cut in a piece of timber or in a stone, 
usually applied to that made by a saw or axe. 

Keys. — In naked flooring, pieces of timber fixed in 
between the joists by mortise and tenon; when 
these are fastened with their ends projecting 
against sides they are termed strutting pieces. 

Keys. — Pieces inserted in boards to prevent warping. 

Knee. — A convex bend in the back of a handrail. 

Knee. — A part of the back of a handrailing of a convex 
form, the reverse of a ramp^ which is a back of a 
handrail and is concave; also any piece of timber 
bent to an angular joint. 

Landing. — Horizontal resting-place in a flight. 

Newel. — The central column around which the steps 
of a circular staircase wind; the principal post at 
the angles and foot of a staircase. 

Newel. — In architecture the upright post or central 
column around which the steps of a circular stair- 
case are made to wind, being that part of the 
staircase by which they are sustained. 
The newel is properly a cylinder of stone or 



GLOSSARY r8i 

wood, which bears on the ground and is formed by 
the ends of the steps of the winding stairs. 

There are also newels of wood, which are pieces 
of wood placed perpendicularly, receiving the 
tenons of the steps of wooden stairs into their 
mortises, and wherein are fitted the shafts and 
rests of the staircase and the flight of each story. 
In some of the Tudor and Elizabethan residences 
some very fine examples may be seen of the newel 
richly ornamented and adding much to the beauty 
of the staircase. — Nicholson. 

Nosing. — The outer or front edge of the step. 

Pitching Piece. — A horizontal timber with one of its 
ends wedged into the wall at the top of a flight of 
stairs to support the upper end of the rough 
strings. 

Pitch. — Angle of inclination of the stairs. 

Pitch-board. — A piece of thin board in the form of a 
right-angled triangle, one of the sides of the right 
angle equal to a rise. 

Ramp. — A concave or convex curve or easement of an 
angle, as sometimes required at the end of a 
wreath or an adjoining straight rail. 

Rise. — The vertical rise between the treads. 

Riser. — The board forming the vertical portion of the 
front of a step. 

Run.^Of a flight of stairs, the horizontal distance 
from the first to the last riser. 

Scroll. — A carved curvilinear ornament, somewhat 



i82 GLOSSARY 

resembling in profile the turnings of a ram*s horn. 
— Hatfield. 

Splay. — A slanting or beveling in the sides of an 
opening to a wall for a window or door, so that 
the outside profile of the window is larger than 
that of the inside; it is done for the purpose of 
facilitating the admission of light. It is a term 
applied to whatever has one side making an 
oblique angle v/ith the other; thus the heading 
joists of a boarded floor are frequently splayed in 
their thickness. The word fluing is sometimes 
applied to an aperture in the same sense as 
splayed. 

Spring Bevel of a Rail. — The angle made by the top of 
the plank with a vertical plane touching the ends 
of the rail piece which terminates the concavt. 
side. 

Squaring a Handrail. — The method of cutting a plank 
to the form of a rail for a staircase so that all the 
vertical sections may be right angles. 

Spiral. — In geometry, a curve line of the circular kind, 
which in its progress always recedes more and 
more from its center. In architecture, a curve that 
ascends winding about a cone or spire so that all 
its points continually approach its axis. 

Spandril. — The angle formed by a stairway. 

Stairs (from the Saxon stceger). — In a building, the 
steps whereby to ascend and descend from one 
story to another. 



GLOSSARY 183 

The breadth of the steps of stairs in general use in 
common dwelling houses is from 9 to 12 inches, or 
about 10 inches medium. In the best staircases 
of fine houses or public edifices the breadth ought 
never to be less than 12 inches nor more than 18 
inches. It is a general maxim that the greater 
breadth of a step requires less height than one of 
less breadth; thus, a step of 12 inches in breadth 
will require a rise of 7>^ inches, which may be 
taken as a standard by which to regulate those of 
other dimensions; so that multiplying 12 inches 
by 5^ we shall have 66; then supposing a step to 
be 10 inches in breadth the height should be 
66 -^ 10 = 6| inches, which is nearly, if not exactly, 
what common practice would allow. The propor- 
tion of steps being thus regulated the next consid- 
eration is the number requisite between two floors 
or stories which will be ascertained by supposing 
the breadth of the steps given, say 10 inches each, 
as depending on the space allowed for the stair- 
case, and this, according to the rule laid down, will 
require a rise of nearly 7 inches; suppose then the 
distance from floor to floor to be 13 feet 4 inches, 
or 160 inches, 160 -^ 7 = 224, which would be the 
number required; but as all the steps must be of 
equal heights we should rather take 23 risers, pro- 
vided the staircase room would allow it, and so 
make the height of each somewhat less than 7 
inches. 



i84 GLOSSARY 

The most certain method of erecting a staircase 
is to provide a rod of sufficient length to reach 
from one floor to another, divided into as many 
equal parts as the intended number of risers, and 
try every step as it is set to its exact height. The 
breadth of the staircase may be from 6 to 20 feet 
according to the use or application of the building 
or the form or proportions of the plan. 

If the steps be less than 3 feet in length the 
staircase becomes inconvenient for the passing of 
furniture, as is frequently the case in small houses. 

Though it is desirable to have such rules as are 
here laid down for regulating the proportion of 
the heights, breadths and lengths of steps, archi- 
tects and workmen cannot be so strictly tied to 
them but that they may vary them as circum- 
stances may demand. — Nicholson. 
Stairs are constructions composed of horizontal planes 
elevated above each other, forming steps, afford- 
ing the means of communication between the 
different stories of a building. 

In the distribution of a house of several stories 
the stairs occupy an important place. In new 
constructions their form maybe regular, but in the 
reparation or remodeling of old buildings the first 
consideration is generally to make the distribution 
suitable for the living and sleeping rooms, and 
then to convert to the use of the stairs the spaces 
which may remain, giving to them such forms in 



GLOSSARY 185 

plan as will render them agreeable to the sight and 
commodious in the use. 

When houses began to be built in stories the 
stairs were placed from story to story in straight 
flights like ladders. They were erected on the 
exterior of the building, and to shelter them when 
so placed great projection was given to the roofs. 
To save the extent of space required by straight 
flights the stairs were made to turn upon them- 
selves in a spiral form, and were inclosed in 
turrets. A newel, either square or round, reach- 
ing from the ground to the roof, served to sup- 
port the inner ends of the steps, and the outer 
ends were let into the walls or supported on 
notched boards attached to the walls. 

At a later period the stairs came to be inclosed 
within the building itself, and»for a long time pre- 
served the spiral form which the former situation 
had necessitated. 
Definitions. — The apartment in which the stair is placed 
is called the staircase. 

The horizontal part of a step is called the tread, 
the vertical part the riser, the breadth or distance 
from riser to riser the going, the distance from the 
first to the last riser in a ?i.\g\\tth.Q going of the flight. 

When the risers are parallel with each other the 
stairs are, of course, straight. 

When the steps are narrower at one end than 
the other they are termed winders. 



i86 GLOSSARY 

When the bottom step has a circular end it is 
called ^ round-ended step ; when the end is formed 
into a spiral it is called a curtail step. 

The wide step introduced as a resting place in 
the ascent is a landings and the top of a stair is 
also so called. "^ 

When the landing occupies the whole width of 
the staircase it is called a half-space. 

When the landing at a resting place is square it 
is designated a quarter-space. 

So much of a stair as is included between two 
landings is called a flighty especially if the risers 
are parallel with each other; the steps in this case 
are fliers. 

The outward edge of a step is named the nosing; 
if it projects beyond the riser so as to receive a 
hollow moulding glued under it it is a moulded 
nosing. 

A straight edge laid on the nosings represents 
the angle of tne stairs, and is denominated the line 
of nosings. 

The raking pieces which support the ends of the 
steps are called strings. The inner one placed 
against the wall is the wall string ; the other the . 
outer string. If the outer string be cut to miter 
with the end of the riser it is a cut and mitered 
string ; but when the strings are grooved to receive 
the ends of the treads and risers they are said to 
be housedy and the grooves are termed housings* 



GLOSSARY 187 

Stairs In which the outer string of the upper 
flight stands perpendicularly over that of the 
lower flight are called dog-legged stairs^ otherwise 
newel stairs^ from the fact of a piece of stuff called 
a newel, being used as the axis of the spiral of the 
stair; the newel is generally ornamented by turn- 
ing, or in some other way. The outer strings in 
such stairs are tenoned into the newel, as also are 
the first and last risers of the flight. — Newland. 
Staircase. — A term applied to the whole set of stairs, 
with the walls supporting the steps, leading from 
one story to another. The same staircase frequently 
conducts to the top of the building, and thus con- 
sists of as many stories as the building itself. 

When the height of the story is considerable, 
resting places become necessary, which go under 
the name of quarter-spaces and half-spaces^ accord- 
ing as the passenger has to pass a right angle, or 
two right angles; that is, as he has to describe a 
quadrant or a semicircle. In very high stories 
that admit of sufficient head-room, and where the 
space allowed for the staircase is confined, the 
staircase may have two revolutions in the height 
of one story, which will lessen the height of the 
steps; but in grand staircases only one revolution 
can be admitted, the length and breadth of the 
space on the plan being always proportioned to 
the height of the building, so as to admit of fixed 
proportions. 



i88 GLOSSARY 

In contriving a grand edifice particular attention 
must be paid to the situation of the space occupied 
by the stairs, so as to give them the most easy 
command of the rooms. 

With regard to the lighting of a grand staircase, 
a skylight, or rather lantern, is the most appropri- 
ate; for the light thus admitted is powerful, and 
the design admits of greater elegance; indeed, 
where the staircase does not adjoin the exterior 
walls this is the only method by which light ':an 
be admitted. 

In small buildings the position of the staircase 
is indicated by the general distribution of the 
plan, but in large edifices this is not so obvious, but 
must at least be determined by considering natu- 
rally its connection with other apartments. — 
Nicholson. 

Straight Flight of Stairs is one in which the steps are 
parallel and at right angles to the strings. 

Steps (from the Saxon stcEp). — The degrees of a stair- 
case, by which we rise, consisting of two parts, 
one horizontal called treads, the other vertical 
called risers. When steps are placed around the 
circumference of a circle, or an ellipse, or any 
segments of them, they are called winders, but 
when the sides are straight they are called fliers. 
The first, or lower step, with a scroll wrought 
upon its end, according to the plan of the handrail, 
is called the curtail step. 



GLOSSARY 189 

Stretch-out. — A term applied to a surface that will just 
cover a body so extended that all its parts are in a 
plane, or may be made to coincide with a plane. 

Scroll or Curtail Step. — The bottom step with the front 
end shaped to receive the balusters around the 
scroll of the handrail. 

String or String-piece. — That part of a flight of stairs 
which forms its ceiling or soffit. 

String-board. — In wooden stairs the board next the 
well-hole which receives the ends of the steps; its 
face follows the direction of the well-hole, what- 
ever the form; when curved it is frequently formed 
in thicknesses glued together, though sometimes it 
is got out of the solid like a handrail. 

String-board. — In wooden stairs, a board placed next 
to the well-hole, and terminating the ends of the 
steps. The face of string-boards follows the 
direction of the well-hole, whether it be prismatic 
or an inverted cone. String-boards are sometimes 
glued in several thicknesses with the fibers of the 
wood running in the direction of the steps; some- 
times they are wrought out of solid, like a 
handrail, the grain of the wood being in the same 
direction; and they are also glued up like 
columns, viz. , having the fibers vertical. Brackets 
are most frequently placed upon the string-boards 
and mitered into the risers. — Nicholson. 

Tangent.^— In geometry, a right line perpendicularly 
raised on the extremity of a radius, which touches 



I90 GLOSSARY 

a circle so that it would never cut it, although 

indefinitely produced, or in other words, it would 

never come within its circumference. 
Step. — The horizontal board on which we tread. 
Soffit. — The under side of an arch or moulding. 
Tread. — The horizontal distance between the risers — 

one of the equal divisions into which the flight is 

divided; the top of the step. 
Wall String. — The board placed against the wall io 

receive the ends of the step. 
Well. — The place occupied by the flight of stairs. The 

space left beyond the ends of the steps is called 

the well-hole. 
Well Staircase. — A winding staircase of ascent or 

descent, to different parts of a building, so called 

from the walls inclosing it resembling a well; 

called frequently a geometrical staircase. 
Winders. — Stairs, steps not parallel to each other. 

The winders are supported by rough pieces 

called bearers^ wedged into the wall and secured to 

the strings. 

When the front string Is ornamented with brack- 
ets it is called a bracketed stair. 

Treads of triangular form used to turn an angle 

or go round a curve. 
Wreath. — The whole of a heliacally curved handrail. 
Wreath Piece. — A portion of a wreath less than the 

whole. 



CONTENTS 

FIRST METHOD 

Page 

Preface 5 

Advice to Young Workmen 9 

Straight Flight of Stairs II 

Landing Stairs 1 1 

Acute Landing and Cylinder 12 

Obtuse Landing and Cylinder 12 

Half-space and Two-step Landing 12 

Quarter-space and Four Winders 13 

Quarter-space and Six Winders 13 

Half-space and Dancing Winders 14 

Half-space, Cylinder and Dancing Winders 14 

Circular Stairs 15 

Diagram of Tangents 16 

Curve of Face Mould 17 

Explanatory Diagram 18 

Rule for Turn-out 20 

Steps and Risers 20 

Line of Rail 21 

Face Moulds 23 

Facing Mould Lines 24 

Acute Angle Stairs 26 

Showing Mould and Pitch 27 

Blocking Out 28 

Constructing Cylinder 29 

Stretch-out , , 30 

i 



ii CONTENTS 

Page 

Getting Bevels for Butts 31 

Face Moulds and Stretch-outs 32 

Ramps over Fliers 33 

Moulds for Quarter-space Stairs 34 

Stretch-out over Cylinder 36 

Stretch-out over Winders 38 

Laying Out Rail over Circular Well-hole 40 

Face Moulds, Ramps and Stretch-outs 41 

Final Remarks ,,..... 42 

SECOND METHOD 

A Remark or Two 43 

Given Treads and Risers 44 

Use of Pitch-board 46 

Stair Strings and Winders .* . . . 47 

Line Theory of Handrailing 49 

Around a Cylinder 50 

How to Obtain a Wreath 52 

Squaring a Wreath 54 

Twists and Cylinders 56 

Cutting Wreath Square to Plank 57 

Beveling Joints 58 

THIRD METHOD 

Line of Nosings 59 

Rail over Level Landing 59 

Face Moulds, Tangents and Joints 60 

Center Lines for Rails 60 

Major and Minor Axes 61 

Blocking Out for Wreath 62 



CONTENTS iii 

Page 

Rail in Position 63 

Rail at Landing 64 

Line of Quadrant 65 

Lay-out of Pitches 66 

Pitch in Cylinder, How Found 70 

Bevels on Cylinder 71 

Face Mould 72 

Blocking Out 74 

Plan of Quarter-space Rail 75 

Wreath Worked Out 'j'] 

Tangents Unfolded 79 

Ramp and Pitch 80 

Stretch-out for Winders 81 

Ramp and Templets , 83 

Method of Getting Face Moulds 84 

Plan of Wreath, Risers and Tangents 85 

Stretch-outs over Landing 86 

Isometrical Sketch of Wreath %'j 

Stretch-out over Obtuse Landing 89 

Wreath over Cylinder 90 

Bevels for Butt Cuts 91 

Falling Lines and Well 92 

Use of Pitch-board 93 

Wreath for Small Cylinder - 94 

Three Points in a Cylinder 96 

Sliding the Face Moulds 96 

Mould and Plank 97 

Nine Sections of Handrails 99 

General Glossary and Definitions lOO 



iv CONTENTS 

FOURTH METHOD 

Page 

A Philadelphia Stairway , 145 

A Sensible Stairway 146 

A Continued Stair 149 

A Quaint Stair 1 50 

A Built-Up Newel 155 

Built-Up Newels 160 

Balusters with Brass Brackets 165 

Cutting Miter Cap 114 

Cutting Strings 115 

Carriages for Strings 121 

Carved Stairway 138 

Carved Newel Top 140 

Colonial Stairway 143 

Carved Newel from Belgium 157 

Columner Newel 161 

Chamfering 167 

Dovetailed Treads 119 

Double Stairs 131 

Details of Carved Stairway 139 

Details of Rail and Finish 152 

Difference in Balusters 164 

Diminishing Brackets 169 

Elevation of Stairs Ill 

Elevation of Housed String 117 

Ends of Steps 123 

Elevation of Bull-Nose Steps 125 

Elevation of Stairway 135 

Elevation of Grand Entrance 136 

Framing Platform Stairs 108 

Framing a Bull-Nose Step , 112 

Four Plans of Stairs 132 

Fancy Stair and Newel 1 56 



CONTENTS V 

Page 

Grand Stairs with Landings 131 

Grand Hall Stairs 131 

Head Room 128 

Heavy Carved Newels 141 

Introduction to Method IV 99 

Interior View of Stairway 153 

Newels and Platform Stairs 99 

Newel Cap 113 

Newel Miter Cap 114 

Nosings 121 

Nosing Solid 122 

Newel and Baluster 154 

Open Strings 109 

Open Newel Stairs no 

Open String and Nosing 125 

Outside Hall Plan 135 

Odd Newels from France 161 

Ornamental Stop Chamfering 168 

Proportioning Treads and Risers lOO 

Platforms 107 

Plan of Stairs no 

Plan of Tread and Riser 121 

Plan of Showing Carriage Strings 126 

Perspective of Open Stairs 126 

Perspective of Carved Newel 142 

Plam Newels 1 58 

Pitman's Carved Newel 159 

Patterns of Handrails 170 

Rail and Baluster Fastenings 123 

Raking and Straight Balusters 147 

Strength oi Stairs . . . « , 107 

Sketches of Cut Strings 118 

Section of Bull-Nose Step 124 

Section of Rail with Balusters 148 



vi CONTENTS 

Page 

Serpentine Newel and Balusters 151 

Sections and Elevations of Stair 152 

Some French Newels 162 

Spanish Newels 163 

Spiral Newel 165 

Stop Chamfering 167 

Styles of Brackets 170 

Sections of Handrails 170 

Two Landing Stairs 129 

Three Landing Stairs 130 

Three Plans of Stairs 133 

Three Hall Plans of Stairs 134 

Two Elevations of Stairs 166 

Tables of Treads and Risers ^ . . , 171 



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of Fifty Low and 
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LOW PRICES NAMED, ON THE SAME DAY 

THE ORDER IS RECEIVED. 



Other P lans 

WE ILLUSTRATE IN ALL BOOKS UNDER THE AUTHORSHIP OF FRED T. 
HODGSON FROM 25 TO 5o PLANS 

FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, ADDRESS THE PUBLISHERS. 




SEND ALL ORDERS FOR PLANS TO 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE & COMPANY 

ARCHITECTURAL DEPARTMENT 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



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FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. 

PUBUSHERS OF SFXF-EDUCATIONAL BOOKS 
1325 Michigan Avenue CHICAGO 



Modern Carpentry 

VOLUME I. 



m 



m CARPENTERS AND WOOD WORKQtS GENERALLY 

Fred T. Hodgson, Architect, Editor of the National Builder, 
Steel Square and Its Uses, etc., etc. 

iV NEW, complete guide, containing hundreds of qulclt 
*^ methods for performing work in carpentry, joining and 
general wood -work. Like all of Mr. Hcdgson's works, it is 
written in a simple, every-day style, and 
does not bewilder the workmg-man 
with long mathematical lormulas or 
abstract theories. The illustrations, of 
which there are many, are explanatory, 
io that any one who can read plain 
English will be able to understand them 
easily and to follow the work in hand 
without difi&culty. 

The book contains methods of laying 
roofs, rafters, stairs, floors, hoppers, 
bevels, joining mouldings, mitering, 
coping, plain hand-railing, circular 
work, splayed work, and many other 
things the carpenter wants to know to help 
liim in his every day vocation. It is the 
most complete and very latest work published, being thorough^ 
practical and reliable. One which no carpenter can afford to 
1)6 without 




Prioc - • • $J.0O 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO.. Publishers. 

CHICAGO, ILL. 



STEEL SQUAR.E 

A TREATISE OF THE PRAOTIGAL USES OF 

By FRED. T. HODGSON, Jkrchitect. 



This IS the latest practical work on 
the Steel Square and its uses pub- 
ished. It is thorough, accurate, clear 
and easi y understood. Confounding 
terms and phrases have been relig- 
iously avoided where possible, 
and everything in the book has been 
made so plain that a boy twelve years 
of age, possessing ordinary intelli- 
gence, can understand it from begin* 
ning to end. 

It is an exhaustive work including 
some very ingenious devices for laying 
out bevels for rafters, braces and other 
inclined work; also chapters on the 
Square as a calculating machine, show- 
ing how to measure Solids, Surfacea 
and Distances — very useful to builders 
and estimators. Chapters on roofing 
and how to form them by the aid of 
the Square. Octagon, Hexagon, Hip 
and other roofs are shown and ex- 
plained, and the manner of getting 
the rafters and jacks given. Chapters 
on heavy timber f ramin g, pho wing how 
the Square is used for laying out Mor- 
tis es, Tenons, Shoulders, Inclined 
"Work, Angle Corners and similar 
work. The work also contains a large number of diagrams, showing how 
the Square may be used in finding Bevels, Angles , Stair Treads and bevel 
cuts for Hip, Valley, Jack and other Rafters, besides methods for laying 
out Stair Strings,. Stair Carriages and Timber Structures generally, 'the 
books also contain 25 to 50 illustrations of the perspective and 'floor plans 
of medium priced houses. 

The work abounds with hundreds of fine illustratioris and explana- 
tory diagrams which will prove a perfect mine of instruction for the 
mechanic, young or old. 

Two large volumes, 600 pages, nearly 500 illustrations, printed on a 
superior quality of paper from new large type. 
Price. 2 Vols., cloth binding:.... $2.00 

Slnsrle Volumes. Part I. cloth 1.00 

•• Partll.clotb I.OO 




SEND FOR COMPLETE ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE FREE 

FREDERICK J. DR.AKE ®. 

PUBLISHERS OF SELF-EDUCATIONAL BOOKS 
CHICAGO, ILL. 



CO. 



Hodgson's Modern Estimator 
and Contractors' Guide 

For Pricing Builders' Work 
ClotK. $1.50 

SYNOPSIS OF CONTENTS 

Introduction to estimating— Remarks on tendering for work— Terms oi 
payment— Discounts— System in estimating— Reminders of items in work 
and materials— Different methods of estimating — Some remarks on esti- 
mating generally — Estimating by stories — Mensuration of superflciest — 
Definitions — Foiu--sided figures— Triangles— Trapeziums and Trapezoids— 
Regular polygons— Irregular bodies— Circles and segments — Ellipses and 
similar figures— Hyperboles— Table of segments of circles— Table of zones of 
circles— Areas of zones of circles— Lengths of circular arcs — Length of 
elliptical arcs— Cubes and solids — Pyramidal measurements — Wedge and 

Erismoids — The cylinder, cone and sphere— Spheroids— Conoids and hyper- 
oloids— Average rates of wages per hour for the year —Loads for 
wagons, carts, wheelbarrows and baskets— Loads of earth, bricks, stone, 
tiles, slates, lumber, timber, mortar, lime, concrete, sand, clay, ballast, etc.— 
Cubic contents of earth before and after digging — Weight of various mate- 
rials-Cost of items of work of various kinds in Philadelphia, Boston, New 
York, Chicago, San Francisco and other large cities at this date — 

Excavating for trenches, drainage, footings and similar work, with hints as 
to cost, etc. — Pricing items of excavation in various soils — Some things 
worth knowing in excavating — Natural slopes — Trimming banks— Equiv- 
alents of slopes— Irregular sites— Runs for wheelbarrows— Weights of 
materials— Steam excavators and shovels— Cost of excavating— Rough 
approximate prices— Laying drain tiles, pipes, weeping tiles and similar 
work— Rain-fall and clearance of same— Table of gradients— Clay tiles and 
cast iron pipes— Weeping tiles — Footings for foundations — Cut stone — 
Cement stone— Peicentage of cost— Determining the cost of labor— Table of 
rate of wages paid different trades —Estimating by the square- 

Analysis of work generally— Estimating by units of accommodation- 
Method exfilained — Estimating by cubing— Table showing cost per foot, 
name of building, and date of erection— Prices of work of various kinds- 
Cost of parks and public grotmds per acre— Estimating by detail quantities- 
Remarks and suggestions on this method of estimating— Prices of work per 
item, or by the hour at present date — Slating — Slater's memoranda- 

Slate nails for any superficial area with table and rules— General matters- 
Itemized work with prices attached— Plasterer's data— Bricklayer's data- 
Stone mason's data — Carpenter's data — Painter's cl'^ta — Painter's extras — 
The plasterer and painter— Stucco work— External piastering in Portland 
cement— Outside plastering generally— Tiles and tiling with cost of labor 
and material— Fixing tiles— Proof tiles and laying same — Cost of slate— 
Bangor black slate— Brownville Maine slate— Green, purple and red slate- 
Peach bottom slate — Sea-green slate — Weight of slate — Measurement of 
slating— Cost of slating— The excavator and bricklayer— Rules, tables, notes, 
data and pointers useful to the estimator— Table of weight of cast iron drain 
and soil pipes— Table showing number of bricks required for any size of 
wall— Measurement of brickwork— Safe bearing loads — Masonry generally — 
Proportion of bricks and mortar— Number of bricks required for well and 
other circular work— Thickness of brick walls for dwelling houses— Walls 
for cold storage and warehouses— Roofs generally— Shingling— Table for 
estimating shingles— Slating— Weight of roof covering — Snow and wind 
loads— Wind pressure on roofs— Comparative cost of roofs— Composition 
toofs— Specific gravity and weights — The metric system — Measures of 
iength— Measures of area — Measures of volume— Current measures — Weights 
of lumber of the Pacific coast — Sxu'veyor's measure — Square measure— Sur- 
veyor's square measure— The wear and tear of building materials— Stone and 
brick work— How to figure plastering— Short hints on stone and brick work- 
Short methods of estimating— Some pointers on estimating — Miscellaneous 
tables, rules and general information useful to the estimator— Closing 
remarks with hints and suggestions as to how to estimate systematically, 
and proper methods of keeping data and memoranda, etc., etc., etc. 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO.. Publishers. 

CHICAGO, II.U 



NOV 1 1913 



^^ Builders^ ArohHeoturBl 
Drawing Seif^Taughi^^ 

By FRED T. HODGSON 

This work is especially designed for Carpenters and Architec ;S 
and other woodworkers who desire to learn drawing at home 
and who have not the means, time or 
opportunity of taking a regular course 
in school or college, or availing them- 
selves of the offers made by one or other 
of the ''Correspondence Schools." 

The work commences with a de- 
scription of drawing instruments and 
accessories, with rules for using them, 
and hints as to their care and manage- 
ment. Rules for laying out simple 
I drawings and executing same are given, 
and the student is taught step by step 
to draw to scale, first the plans, next 
the elevations, and finally the details of 
a cottage, including foundations, walls, 
doors, windows, stairs, and all other 
items required for finishing a ■mall 
building complete in every particular. 
A chapter and a number of plates are 
devoted to more elaborate work, and the student is shown by a 
series of easy lessons in simple language how to make more elab- 
orate drawings. Theory is not considered in the work, nor is 
perspective or shading, as the author has endeavored to make 
the work a purely practical one for practical workmen. Nearlj; 
all the examples given are drawn to scale and may be followed 
as they are given or may be enlarged or reduced at the will of the 
student. As an Architectural Drawing Book for real practical 
workingmen, who intend making draftsmen of themselves by 
their own efforts, this book has no equal. 300 pages, over 30C 
illustrations, including 18 double plates. The book is bound in 
cloth 




Cloth 



price, $2.00. 



FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. 

CHICaGO 



The Practical Cabinet Maker 
and Furniture Designer 

By Fred T. Hodgson, F. A. I. C. 



AN ENTIRELY NEW BOOK on cabinet making in 
all its phases, and is intended to aid young 

workmen in making all kinds of furniture, from the 

simplest mission to the most elaborate styles. It con- 
tains lessons on the framing and 
joining of woodwork, glueing 
and the using of glues gener- 
ally, veneering, doweling, gild- 
ing and completing fine cabinet 
work. It describes the various 
woods suitable for cabinet work 
and the best methods of working 
them. Various styles of work 
are shown — French, German, 
Queen Anne, Chippendale, 
Shereton, Hepplewhite, Colonial, 
Adams, Louis XVI, Louis 

XVII, Louis Seize, Boule work and other styles — thus 

enabling the student to recognize the style of a piece of 

furniture on sight. 

The book is well illustrated with several hundred 

illustrations. 




Large 12mo, Cloth Binding. Price, $2.00 

Sold by booksellers grenerally or sent postpaid 
to any address upon receipt of price. 

FREDERICK J. DRAKE & CO. 

PUBLISHERS 



CHICAGO, 



U. S. A. 



